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 ADVANCED
Laurel Knob
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Shimer Down T 
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 
Aloha slab T 
Annie Get Your Guns T 
Arrested Development  T 
Before the Settlers Arrive T 
Better late than never T 
Biopsy T 
Black Flag T 
Buried Treasure T 
Canyons of Laurel T 
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 
Central Pillar of Laurel T 
Clippidy Doodah... S 
Clowns to the Left of me T 
Cotton Pony  T 
Cruising with the Top Down T 
Defective Sonar T 
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 
Dillard Arete T 
Don't call me surely T 
Dry streak T 
Fathom T 
Fathom Direct T 
Fathom Escape Hatch T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Friction Addiction T 
Frolictown T 
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 
Funky Chicken, The T 
Get it while it's hot T 
Gibbet , The T 
Girl friend route T 
Groover (Fischesser Finish) T 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 
Have and Not Need T,S 
High & Dry T,S 
Hone Ranger T 
Hypocrite's Corner T 
Jokers to the right  T 
Keel Hauled T 
Laurel's Girdle T 
Laurel's Snake Dike T 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 
Manatee Fluid T 
Mechanical Bull T,S 
Mirage  T 
Mirage Direct Finish T 
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 
Monster Groove Reject Start T 
Mutiny T 
Nana's Bananas T 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 
O.K. Corral T,S 
Oasis T 
Old Times' Sake T 
Permission Granite T 
Pirate's Cove T 
Pirate's cove Alt start T 
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 
Puff The Magic Dragon T 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 
Rejected Radar T 
Rock Eating Tree T 
Route Of The Living Dead T 
Seconds T 
Squirrely man T 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 
Stellar Sonar T 
Stemming Laurel T 
Stingray T 
Unfathomable T 
Use It Express T 
Use It Or Luge It T,S 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 
Walkin' Da Plank T 
Wild Turkeys T 
Wild Wild West  T,S 
Wormhole T 

Use It Express 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nathan Brown
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: nbrown on May 28, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Poor photo but good beta. The two variation starts...

Description 

I've been meaning to post up this nice doubly direct start for a while now...

Discovered while assisting Andrew M. with adding bolts to his direct variation, this route cleaned up very upon removal of a few key loose flakes, leaving behind great holds on steep rock. As is, it's probably the best way to start Use It Or Luge It (at least in the sub 11+ range), as it only goes at 9+ at the start, and 10- at the top, which is the short second pitch of Use It...

Start out left on the apron in a short right facing corner with a god TCU at full reach. Climb past this and through the steeper wall past 2 bolts on good holds to merge into the groove above the crux of the direct start. Continue up past 2 more bolts (new ones thanks to Andrew) to merge into the original 2nd pitch. Continue past 3 more bolts and a key #.75 camelot to the anchor. 180' This is a nice and straight moderate line.

Location 

Between the original start (way left) and the hard direct start (right).

Protection 

light rack up to # 1 camelot.


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