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L to R R to L Alpha
This route has its first two bolts on an arete several feet right of where the actual climbing happens out left. The crux is off the third bolt which leads to easy ground. The climbing over a bulge on the last bolt is non-trivial (tho easier then the crux below). Reasonably clean, though the move structure is just "okay".
Route is to the right and across a gully from Diaper Rash on the south side of the creek, maybe 20' east and upstream of the small dam.
6 bolts. It would have been nice if the first couple of bolts were where the climbing was- who likes to swing when falling? Though the climbing up to the 1st bolt is easier then it appears, the consequences of falling before it would not be pretty (some might prefer stick-clipping). One should also take care on the last bolt as if one were to come off (something breaking or lead falling) there's a tasty ledge that the 1st ascentionists failed to consider. The bolts at the top anchor had nothing on them to allow any rap or lower (we set up two pieces of climbing rope, a chain repair link and a 'biner). The anchor now is long enough to hang away from the wall but considering the origional setup and location, we could only shake our heads. Whoever removed the slings or chains obviously was able to scramble/walk off to the southeast and descend the gully but it looks hairball what with loose rock (much or which we removed by the anchor).