|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 140'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||mcarizona on Jan 11, 2010 with updates from Jay Collins|
|Comments on Ursa Minor||Add Comment|
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By Jay Collins
Oct 23, 2014
I am fairly certain this climb is at 34.900073, -111.868388
Its very difficult to see the 'twin peaks' from the road unless you know what you are looking for.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One of the better moderate towers.
P1: Ledge-humping up to the roof with a 5.9 slab sequence (only 10' off a fat ledge) thrown in.
...move belay around corner...
P2: Jams the whole way. Surprisingly nice stembox (both corners eat hand-sized gear) to a fun little 5.8 roof move.
Rappel with single 70-m rope to ground.
From: Sedona, AZ
13 hours ago
Very fun route, mostly good quality rock, up a great little tower. No anchor bolts at end of pitch 1 as Bloom/Wolfe guide shows. Bring large stoppers for belay instead. Could not find even one place to put any micros as the gear section calls for. I'd say complete set of stoppers, singles of cams from 3/4" to 3", and a half dozen slings/long runners.
Rappel is 110' on chain anchor. 70m perfect, but we did it easily with a 60m with some very easy downclimbing.
Bloom/Wolfe guide calls the route 9; MP gives it 7+. We found it about 5.9 on the first pitch at the first bolt if you climb steep slab straight up from bolt. On lead I moved 6 ft right and climbed up bigger holds at 7+.
(There is some misleading gear w/ long runners that look like a rap station but were probably used to back off the tower. They are on the SE side and are totally off route. Go up to the obvious saddle/ridge from there to start.)