This is on the southwest face and climbs a obvious right leaning crack and face above a roof on brown rock. There is a boulder below the roof. Climb the left side of this boulder or chimney behind it. From above the roof there are a few ways to go. I follow the right leaning crack, some face moves then the upper right-leaning crack to the top. You can also go straight up.
Pro to 2.5"
|By Mary Moser|
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
This is a really fun and unusual climb. I like the move up and over the "crevasse" in order to reach the roof. There is a little bit of runout when the right leaning crack ends and a smeary face section is encountered. This face section is steeper than it looks from the ground. A new leader might have trouble here. I put a hybrid alien in a shallow crack in that section, but in all honesty I doubt it would have held. So it was pretty spicy, yet a lot of fun.