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 ADVANCED
The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The S 
Bear Crack, The T 
Bear Cub Crack T 
Bear Fingers T 
Bear's Choice S 
Beast of Burden S 
Beast, The T 
Black Hole Sun S 
Body Snatcher S 
Jason and the Argonauts S,TR 
Jekyll and Hyde S 
Just Bearly T 
Kidnapped S 
Kill Uncle S,TR 
Kodiak S 
Lower Arete S,TR 
Mark's Moderate T,S 
Napa Valley Party Service S 
Old And In The Way S 
Polar Bear Spire S 
Rampage S 
Silverado Squatters S 
Smash n Grab S 
Stone Free S 
Swallow My Pride S 
Theodore Roosevelt S,TR 
Treasure Island S 
Uncle Tom S 
Ursa Major T 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 
Wayne's World S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: Dodrill on Jan 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Ursa Major, Ursa Minor, Wayne's World, Bear Cub

Description 

Climb the obvious diagonal undercling crack left of Waynes World, joining and crossing that route then continuing straight up the crack to the top of the cliff. Belay and rappel from bolts/slings in a corner.


Location 

On Waynes World formation, East of main Bear Cliff.


Protection 

Gear: cams to 3.5" Clip a bolt or two on Waynes World. Rappel.



Comments on Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack Add Comment
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By Floyd Hayes
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Leading the lower part of the initial undercling crack is spooky, it feels like it could pop off when you pull back on it--presumably inspiring the name "Guillotine Crack" (which I like more than Ursa Minor). I clipped three bolts connecting the lower crack and the upper crack. I didn't think the upper crack was any harder than the lower crack and thought both crack sections were solid 5.8 and easier than 5.9. The length of the climb was about 90 feet including the initial traverse; lowering or rappelling off a 50-meter rope might not make it to the bottom.

By splitclimber
Oct 3, 2013

you can lead a variation of this climb, avoiding the lower curved crack, by clipping the bolts for Wayne's World and one on Just Bearly, then placing one 3" cam in the crack at the steep crux. fun long route and worth doing. 5.8