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The Bear
Routes Sorted
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Bear Arete, The 
Bear Crack, The 
Bear Cub Crack 
Bear Fingers 
Bear's Choice 
Beast of Burden 
Beast, The 
Black Hole Sun 
Body Snatcher 
Jason and the Argonauts 
Jekyll and Hyde 
Just Bearly 
Kill Uncle 
Lower Arete 
Mark's Moderate 
Napa Valley Party Service 
Old And In The Way 
Polar Bear Spire 
Silverado Squatters 
Smash n Grab 
Stone Free 
Swallow My Pride 
Theodore Roosevelt 
Treasure Island 
Uncle Tom 
Ursa Major 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack 
Wayne's World 
Unsorted Routes:

Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: Dodrill on Jan 11, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Ursa Major, Ursa Minor, Wayne's World, Bear Cub

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Climb the obvious diagonal undercling crack left of Waynes World, joining and crossing that route then continuing straight up the crack to the top of the cliff. Belay and rappel from bolts/slings in a corner.


On Waynes World formation, East of main Bear Cliff.


Gear: cams to 3.5" Clip a bolt or two on Waynes World. Rappel.

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By Floyd Hayes
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Leading the lower part of the initial undercling crack is spooky, it feels like it could pop off when you pull back on it--presumably inspiring the name "Guillotine Crack" (which I like more than Ursa Minor). I clipped three bolts connecting the lower crack and the upper crack. I didn't think the upper crack was any harder than the lower crack and thought both crack sections were solid 5.8 and easier than 5.9. The length of the climb was about 90 feet including the initial traverse; lowering or rappelling off a 50-meter rope might not make it to the bottom.

By splitclimber
Oct 3, 2013

you can lead a variation of this climb, avoiding the lower curved crack, by clipping the bolts for Wayne's World and one on Just Bearly, then placing one 3" cam in the crack at the steep crux. fun long route and worth doing. 5.8