WI3-4 M4+ PG13
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
|Consensus: ||WI3-4 M4+ [details]|
|FA: ||Taylor B. & Jessica Y.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Fall is best, maybe spring|
|Page Views: ||579|
|Submitted By: ||Taylor-B. on Oct 27, 2013|
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|Please respect the mining claims in this area.|
This route climbs very well and comes into condition more often than North Star
Pitch 1. M4 or M1. Do the same start as North Star
. Climb the runnel on the right at M4 or climb the obvious weakness just to the left of the runnel at M1. Belay at the boulder on the terrace with one bolt and some gear.
Pitch 2. WI3-4 M3+. Climb the main flow of North Star
for thirty feet and then traverse right. Pull on to the rock and aim for the V-groove to gain the ledge. The belay can be hard to construct in this area.
Pitch 3. M2. Traverse on the ledge, past the thin smear of ice, past a fixed rappel anchor and build a belay in a protective alcove before the next pitch.
Pitch 4. M4. Climb the obvious golden corner. This steep pitch protects well. Build a belay in the WI3 bulge.
Pitch 5. WI3 M2. Continue up the runnel of ice that angles left. Move left of the rotten yellow overhang and climb easy and well protected terrain to low angle 3rd class terrain.
Pitch 6. WI3 M3. Traverse left and continue up the upper pitches of North Star
. At this point it might be easier to just walk off to the west down scree and talus.
Descent: there is a rappel anchor at the top of pitch 5, a 60m rappel gets you down to the other fixed rappel on the ledge. Rappel straight down from the ledge and locate a two bolt anchor on a summer sport route. The two bolt anchor will get you to the ground in 60m.
SR up to a BD#4, a few pitons and ice screws.
The thin smear on the traverse ledge of pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Green - Ursa Major. Blue dots - belays. Red dots -...
Pitch 4. It climbs very nice.
Pitch 3. Teague Holmes punching it up new terrain ...