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Urolagniac 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
FA: unknown
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 8, 2002
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Description 

This route is located on the upper tier of the rock, and has magnificent views of the San Jose area, and also potentially of would-be bottle throwers at the top of the rock. Another advantage of this area is that the rock is smooth and a little sheltered so that glass seems to miss the belay stance on the route.

To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. This route is climbing the wider slab just to the left of the bolted route fecolagniac. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance.

This route wasn't too spectacular, a one move route on the top portion. The crack to the left has to be off, or this climb would be maybe a 5.8. Starting at the belay stance and going through the initial crack instead of heading around to the left on top of the large block makes this a little more fun.


Protection 

2 bolt top anchor. Potentially pro could be placed in the large crack on the left of the climb, though the size is unknown. Probably up to 2.5".



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By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

Not that great!