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Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

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Morro da Babilonia 
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Urca (Pao de Acucar area)  


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Location: -22.9499, -43.1591 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,470
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
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Description 

The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.

Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down a trail to get back to the parking lot.

Getting There 

There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.

Taxi’s, of course, work too.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.6 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',9],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Urca (Pao de Acucar area):
Coringa   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 330'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Costao   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 1000'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Via das Italianos   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Secundo Costa Neto   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 800'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Browse More Classics in Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Featured Route For Urca (Pao de Acucar area)
Susannah climbing the first long pitch... I brough...

Coringa 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
A great short moderate slab climb up the south face of Pao de Acucar. From the summit you can descend or continue up on Costao.I would recommend bringing a 60 m rope. I brought a 57ish meter rope that was barely long enough for the first pitch.The route is 2-3 pitches. It's all fairly straightforward 5.6 slab climbing, with a few short vertical moves.The last two pitches can easily be combined as they are short, but many guiding groups break them up into two pitches since they are a bit tricky,...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Urca (Pao de Acucar area) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 7, 2012
This info needs to be consolidated with the existing information for Urca. Admins?
By Cedric B
From: New York, New York
Apr 14, 2015
You can buy a guidebook at the newspaper stand at the entrance to the Urca area -- the roundabout where the cable car leaves for Pao de Acucar.

In 2015, the guidebook costs 50 reals (about $17 USD at the time). The guy selling the book didn't know anything about the area, and doesn't speak English. Just ask for "Guia da Escalada" (think that's right!)

The guidebook is all in Portuguese, but the topos, and basic descriptions, are fairly easy to understand.
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