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The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.
There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.
20 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Urca (Pao de Acucar area):
Featured Route For Urca (Pao de Acucar area)
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13 South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This route is on the north face of the Pao de Acucar. It was established in the 80s by some of the best climbers of the time. It is a mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing, and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio,and of the Pao de Acucar.It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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