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Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

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Urca (Pao de Acucar area) Rock Climbing 


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Location: -22.9499, -43.1591 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,772
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
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Pico Maior de Nova Friburgo. Parque Estadual dos T...

Description 

The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.

Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down a trail to get back to the parking lot.

Getting There 

There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.

Taxi’s, of course, work too.

Climbing Season

For the South America area.

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',10],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Urca (Pao de Acucar area):
Coringa   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 330'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Costao   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 1000'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Chamine Stop   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 750'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Via dos Italianos   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Secundo Costa Neto   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 800'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Featured Route For Urca (Pao de Acucar area)
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew leading the delicate first crux.

Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13  South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This route is on the north face of the Pao de Acucar. It was established in the 80s by some of the best climbers of the time. It is a mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing, and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio,and of the Pao de Acucar.It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Urca (Pao de Acucar area) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 7, 2012
This info needs to be consolidated with the existing information for Urca. Admins?
By Cedric B
From: New York, New York
Apr 14, 2015
You can buy a guidebook at the newspaper stand at the entrance to the Urca area -- the roundabout where the cable car leaves for Pao de Acucar.

In 2015, the guidebook costs 50 reals (about $17 USD at the time). The guy selling the book didn't know anything about the area, and doesn't speak English. Just ask for "Guia da Escalada" (think that's right!)

The guidebook is all in Portuguese, but the topos, and basic descriptions, are fairly easy to understand.

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