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Urban Surfer 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dave Graham, 1999
Page Views: 5,737
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 1, 2006
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The pumpy clip in the middle of the long crux sect...

Description 

The right side of Waimea holds a wall so unbroken in steepness that it is unrivaled in the Northeast. Urban Surfer climbs up the center of this wall.

Start as for Suburban and climb past the kneebar, past the V5 crux, and into the big resting kneebar that signifies the end of Suburban. From here, the route angles left across a hanging corner. The first move involves an awkward reach out left to a tiny crimp. The pumpy moves continue across the diagonaling feature until a huge jug and a big kneebar offer a good rest. Climbing from kneebar to kneebar has been called a V8 boulder problem, though this stretch is about twenty feet long.

From the jug, easier moves head up and slightly right until right below the anchors. A big pull gains the top of the cliff. The topout, though relatively easy, is spectacular.

Originally bolted by John Mallery, Urban was a popular project back then, and continues as such today. In fact, many Rumney climbers never stray from this section of rock. It's understandable, really, as Urban and variations thereof, test a climber's fitness, power, mental fortitude, and kneebarring prowess.


Protection 

10 bolts which are always fixed with draws. A right kneepad is crucial.



Photos of Urban Surfer Slideshow Add Photo
the best kneebar in rumney!
the best kneebar in rumney!
lily hitting the jug after doing a bit of 5.12 intro...
lily hitting the jug after doing a bit of 5.12 int...
otey, almost to the next rest
otey, almost to the next rest
lily on the lower 3rd of Urban
lily on the lower 3rd of Urban
i made this composite of the redpoint crux moves when i was working it then i just came across it so figured id sahre it... if you want to do this route... you need to know these moves! :) <br />
i made this composite of the redpoint crux moves w...
starting in to the traverse
starting in to the traverse
otey, reaching across the chimney
otey, reaching across the chimney
Matt zane starts up urban... it was interesting having to work around the sizable ice flow on the very start...
Matt zane starts up urban... it was interesting ha...
vasya on Urban
vasya on Urban
otey heading in to the crux...
otey heading in to the crux...
otey, matching on a hard crimp (he figured out different beta)...
otey, matching on a hard crimp (he figured out dif...
Comments on Urban Surfer Add Comment
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By James Otey
From: NH
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a

This is the quintessential "fitness route." Sure there are individual moves that are difficult, but it is certainly not a boulderer's route.

The true challenge isn't an individual move, rather, it it climbing from the bottom to the top. The route is so taxing physically because it engages such large muscle groups- and by that I mean the entire core. The "rest" positions are just as taxing the rest of the route, just on the core musculature instead of the forearms. When I tried it in July and August, I would often find myself lowering off gasping for air, and trying to wipe sweat out of my eyes.

For me, the beta must be precisely refined as any break in efficiency causes energy to hemorrhage.

All in all, one of the best routes I've touched at Rumney, and one of the best 13s EVER.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 17, 2012

a challenging route in so many ways but very workable... i saw little bits of progress on every attempt, constantly refining beta to my personal perfection...

it was a hugely mental challenge for me since it takes a while to climb it and you aren't always on point... for instance my inner monologue had a hard time shutting up when i was in the knee bars... it wasnt the zen experience i often have while climbing... but a great learning experience as i've never done such a long hard route...

i recommend it highly to any 5.13 climber that is technically minded...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 17, 2012

Congratulations, Lee. You are climbing hard these days. What a super route. I worked on it for a while, but got shot down by the reach move on the traverse from the kneebar at the sub-anchor. I was always an inch away from the crimp, even getting completely horizontal :( I did hear that Dan Nguyen found a short person's way by staying low to the little crack.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 17, 2012

thanks mark! it was quite an intense process and a fantastic climb... yeah, i could imagine the reach being a bitch for shorter climbers...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 17, 2012

little video of the climb :) nothing fancy