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 ADVANCED
The Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Express, The 
Arnold! Arnold! 
Arrowhead Spire 
Black Mamba Arete 
Blast from the Past 
Bolt the Planet 
Bone 'n' Vein 
Bottom Feeder 
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) 
Cask Strength 
Cimmaron Lanes 
Comin' In Smooth 
Crack of Dawn, The 
Crystal 
Deeper Shade Of Soul 
Dizzi Lizzi 
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America 
Ejection Generation 
Ejection Seat, The 
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone 
Example, The 
Five Dollars 
Ga-stoned Again 
Great Escape, The 
Green Bonus, The 
Gym Arete Direct 
Gym Arete, The 
Head Cheese 
Hot Rod Lincoln 
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like 
I'll Be Back 
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine 
Jane Fonda Warm-up 
Librium Quiver 
Lockdown 
Morning Stretch 
Muscles From Brussels 
My Generation 
Natty Dread 
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet 
New Rule 
New Vernacular, The 
Oh... What Are You Looking At 
Orange Marmalade 
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception 
Paradise Regained 
Penitentiary Pump 
Pinhead 
Prickly Pear 
Profits of Rage 
Pulley Mammoth 
Rally Monkey 
Raw and the Roasted, The 
Real Deal, The 
Rio Station 
Senor Verde 
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! 
Shorty Bob 
Smoking Pickle, The 
Solar Flex 
Spontaneous Combustion 
St. Patty's Slab 
Stud with a Rug 
There Goes the Neighborhood 
Three Stooges 
Thunder & Lightning  
Tomato, Tomotto 
Trailer Park Logic 
Trout Fishing 
Untapped 
Up Valley Goes Downtown 
Urban Fringe 
VHS or Beta 

Urban Fringe 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Andrew, Glena and Alexi Lainis, 2000
Page Views: 1,130
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on May 7, 2002
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Bart Calkins at the little roof halfway up. The cr...

Description 

On the North end of The Gym (referred to as the "New Gym" in Thompson's guide to Cactus/Spiny), but to the right of Black Mamba Arete, is a steep red panel that is split by a crack. Follow a line of bolts past the seam which widens to a finger, then hand crack, over a small roof. Do an exciting lieback move and pull left to two more bolts and work the crack up to the anchors. The route finishes below a roof.

A very nice route and worth the walk from Cactus and Spiny ridge. Also in the shade in the afternoon.


Protection 

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Urban Fringe Slideshow Add Photo
Bart Calkins taking a stem rest before the crux finger crack.
Bart Calkins taking a stem rest before the crux fi...
A happy moment on a great, happy climb.
A happy moment on a great, happy climb.
Comments on Urban Fringe Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

A steep line up beautiful red rock. Lots of positive edges and a finger crack crux give this route a different feel than many of the Shelf pocket-fests.

By Edward Jenner
May 17, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

2-stars for a great route marred only by the bird crap near the anchors. The small roof is more intimidating when you get to it than it looks from the ground, but there is a bomber juggy pocket to make the next clip from. Interesting, continuous and fairly steep make this route worthy