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Urban Development T 

Urban Development 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Oct 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Rik on "Urban Development"

Closed (private property)

Description 

A nice route, but the crux is short and the rest of the route is a slabby crack to a broken end. Maybe 1.5 stars.

Find the route just downhill from Kirk's Corner in an obvious R-facing dihedral with several large boulders at the base.

Start with a small boulder problem to get on top of the boulder resting against the wall. The short (~10ft) thin crack is the crux, but takes a couple small stoppers and cams. Fire through this section and cruise the rest. Set the anchor at the last vertical block (not on top of it) to reduce rope drag for a TR (w/ 60m). Walkoff to descend.

Protection 

Small wires and cams at the crux, standard rack for the rest.


Photos of Urban Development Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing the crux....
Finishing the crux....
Urban Development
BETA PHOTO: Urban Development
and some more of Rik.....
and some more of Rik.....
Rik again
Rik again
Chris Parks coming up over the steep crux of Urban Development.
Chris Parks coming up over the steep crux of Urban...

Comments on Urban Development Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Oct 16, 2002

The route name is Urban Development. Fun finger crack crux at the bottom, and a cruiser from there. Hubbel's guide book gives it 5.10c, but, you be the judge.
By TBD
Jun 9, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Almost as good as Kirk's Corner in my opinion. Little bit of "gravel" on the ledge near the top, but otherwise clean.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2003

Short crux (maybe a couple of moves); NOT 10c.
By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Sep 11, 2003

This is a pretty good climb and definitely worth doing. The crux is easily visible from below, that being the thin crack in the corner. It is easy to protect with wires and small cams. Once you pull through the corner the rest of the crack to the sandy belay ledge is a nice cruise. Just watch for sand on some of the edges. It's not 10c but its not 5.9 either!

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Nov 11, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great for 15 feet....
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I thought Urban Development felt a lot like Purple Haze's (West Ridge - Eldo) crux... i.e. a long stretch to a bomber finger lock from an insecure stance above a ledge. A couple more locks to a perfect hand jam at the top of the vertical section. The rest is a cruise. If Purple Haze is a 9, call Urban Development 9+.
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Jan 24, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This is a fun route. Wouldn't call it 5.10b but maybe .10a. [Definitely] a route worth doing.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 8, 2006

There is a great variation to the top of this route that will keep the climb much more sustained. Pull the initial finger crack crux and continue up until things start to get sandy. Look to your right and there is a finger crack that traverses under the roof for about 40 foot and belay at the top of Kirk's Corner. The variation may only be 5.9 but it's a much better finish. Protect the second on the traverse because there is definitely some pendulum potential. Great route.