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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Baby Sitter T 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 


YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown to me
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jan 10, 2010

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This route is an alternative to the last pitch of Long John Wall. Get yourself to the start of the last pitch of that route to set yourself up for this one. About ten feet to the right, you'll see an alcove with a small tree. This route takes the wide crack up the right side of the alcove. Even though the crack is quite wide in places, there are spots for regular size gear. There are a couple of pins right before the wide section. They both look dubious and there is better gear nearby.


This route starts about ten feet to the right of the start of the last pitch of Long John Wall. Look for an alcove with a small tree in the left side of the alcove.

To descend, scramble climber's left to the descent for Long John Wall back to the large ledge.


Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jan 13, 2010

I found it prudent to build an anchor at the base of the final pitch of LJW, then extend the anchor to the beginning of this pitch. Also, though it is a wide crack, I wouldn't at all call this an 'off-width' pitch. I used maybe one off-width move on the whole thing. Nice alternative to the final pitch of Long John's (though there's nothing wrong with finishing that way, either). Bring small gear.
By Barry Collins
Nov 23, 2011

I like this pitch, there's hidden jugs in/around the "offwidth". Big cam useful higher up. I found ample cracks to build an anchor at the base. Yes, pins are dubious.
By Goat
From: Boulder
Jun 21, 2013

Pins are good. No need for anything bigger than a #3.
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