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|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
This route is a reasonably independent variation of Metamorphosis, offering slightly harder and perhaps more runout climbing. Climb the beginning of Balls Of Fire or Metamorphosis to the two bolts shared by those routes, perhaps 10+ meters up those routes. From there climb up and right a few more meters as per Metamorphosis, but then break left on moderate moves to reach the obvious right-facing, right-leaning flake/shallow dihedral that can be seen from anywhere south of the Wind Tower. In the bottom of this flake you can place a single 1.5" cam, (if I recall correctly, but it might have been a 1"). Use a long runner and make your way up the feature (crux, 10b) paralleling the Metamorphosis several meters to the left. The climbing is somewhat pumpy and insecure in a spot or two. When the flake runs out, continue straight up a few moves through a bulge/overhang to reach the ledge above Metamorphosis and continue left to find a belay as per Balls Of Fire or at the tree. Protect your second on the ramp, so that if they fall after removing the crux pro that they don't swing hard left and cut the rope.
As per Metamorphosis up to the bolts, then launching left and up- I placed only a nut and a 1" or 1.5" 3-cam after that.