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Lower Jungle
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Pygmy 
Restless Natives 
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi 
Rudyard Kipling 
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Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright. 
Upton Sinclair 
Welcome to the Jungle 
Your Bones Will Crack 

Upton Sinclair 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: May - October
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 24, 2011
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Second bolt of Upton Sinclair. Roy on F.A.

Description 

The opening move requires a "dyno" if you are less than 6'1" but all moves are well protected with the four bolts all in the right places. You then move right to a sloping ledge where the crack begins; up and left to chains. This anchor is above the anchor for "Rudyard Kipling," you pass this anchor on your left after clipping the fourth bolt. Way too bad the rock quality deteriorates so as to prevent topping out on the tower!


Location 

Just around the corner from Rudyard Kipling on what we will be calling "Author's Tower." This area is known as the "Tower Section" of the Lower Jungle." That would be the southeast corner of the tower.


Protection 

Four quick draws, three runners, medium to small cams with a few small wires.



Photos of Upton Sinclair Slideshow Add Photo
Edge right to the arete and straight up into the crack, Boissal's Photo.
BETA PHOTO: Edge right to the arete and straight up into the c...
Beta photo (7/10/12)
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo (7/10/12)
Lower section bolted, upper section trad
BETA PHOTO: Lower section bolted, upper section trad
Heading for the 4th bolt
Heading for the 4th bolt
Setting up the first move, a dyno
Setting up the first move, a dyno
Thin edges to a small crack
Thin edges to a small crack
Upper trad section
Upper trad section
Pulling the corner
Pulling the corner
The Author's Tower has four routes. This is Upton Sinclair. Boissal's Photo.
BETA PHOTO: The Author's Tower has four routes. This is Upton ...
Short people's set up for the dyno
Short people's set up for the dyno
Comments on Upton Sinclair Add Comment
Show which comments
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Got a bit confused apparently and stopped at the anchors on the shelf after the 4th bolt, making this a sport route. The blank face is stellar, bring you best edging shoes and get in balance mode for the transition onto the arete.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 21, 2012

Did something break? Getting past that 3rd bolt was frustrating to say the least! 5.9 A0 for me.