|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||L. Dalke & B. Chase, 1965.|
|Season:||Cold in Winter, mostly afternoon sun.|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Feb 27, 2002|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Upstairs||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By pete cogan
Jun 3, 2002
|Terrific route. Here's an alternative descent: rap back to the start on the Sunrider anchors (bring webbing). Then walk down to the ramp and rap down the gully from the tree with the horizontal trunk section. 60m rope.Check out the picture in Rossiter's guide of this tree. The webbing and rap ring were put on June 2, 2002. The rap will leave you 10 feet above the ground and 15 feet from the start of Heavy Weather. Easy mini downclimb.|
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 16, 2002
|If you do this on the same day as the stiffie, The Cruise, you'd find this is the far softer of the two. It was perhaps once rated 5.6.|
By Friso Schlottau
Jul 1, 2005
|Very short. The tree in the pictures makes the route look longer than it is. Still fun, though. There are only two short sections of true off-width, the rest of the way the crack has good holds inside, or it's hand/fist sized jamming.|
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Rossiter book gives an FA date of 1980, and that it might be possible that it is the upper pitch of 'Upstairs 5.6, 1965', but that the rating of 5.6 is far off the mark. I think that it probably is the upper pitch of 'Upstairs' and was probably first done in 1965, or at least some time well before 1980. My basis for this is:
a) a prominent dihedral like this wouldn't have been passed up until 1980,
b) the rating of 5.6 seems pretty accurate. It definitely isn't 5.9.
Fun, albeit short, pitch.
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 12, 2007
This is Upstairs, FA Larry Dalke and Bill Chase, 1965.
According to Jim Erickson in Rocky Heights 1980:
"Upstairs 5.6. This wanders up the right margin of the upper wall (i.e. Upper Peanuts), into a prominent dihedral."
It is the most-obvious and cleanest line on the entire formation, and considering the compressed ratings of the day, it is easy to conclude this is Dalke's route.