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> Cranberry Meadows
Uppity Buddha
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Cranberry Meadows
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Awning, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ballpark Boulder T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Because It's There T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bird Nest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Definite Lee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Feelers Protected T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hillbilly Braille T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Latvian Gambit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Protect the Peelers T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shark Fin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uppity Buddha S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yawning, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yellow Brick Road S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 45 ft (14 m), Grade V |
| FA: | Greg Barrett |
| Page Views: | 832 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Barrett on Sep 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | Braden Batsford, John Serjeantson |
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Description
Start by working your way up the small corner. Some creativity may be required, there are holds in the corner and higher on the left face.
Clip the second bolt from a stable stance on a small shelf. Continue up to the crux which uses a left handed side pull in conjunction with smearing. You can approach it as a balance problem by heading straight up, or use a powerful right layback. The crux is well protected by three bolts in rapid succession.
From the top of the crux, use the flake to your right to gain the large shelf. Don't crank on it too hard, it's attached but may not hold up to abuse.
Clip the next bolt from the shelf, and look up and left to find a wide horizontal hold just out of reach. Once you've grabbed it, find a way to mantle on top of it.
From here head up the remaining large blocks. There are many opportunities for hand and fist jams, but if you look around there are a large number of right handed side pulls available as well.
Clip the second bolt from a stable stance on a small shelf. Continue up to the crux which uses a left handed side pull in conjunction with smearing. You can approach it as a balance problem by heading straight up, or use a powerful right layback. The crux is well protected by three bolts in rapid succession.
From the top of the crux, use the flake to your right to gain the large shelf. Don't crank on it too hard, it's attached but may not hold up to abuse.
Clip the next bolt from the shelf, and look up and left to find a wide horizontal hold just out of reach. Once you've grabbed it, find a way to mantle on top of it.
From here head up the remaining large blocks. There are many opportunities for hand and fist jams, but if you look around there are a large number of right handed side pulls available as well.
Location
Located in between Shark Fin and Yellow Brick road. The straight line of bolts is clearly visible from the ground, and includes three bolts bunched up near the crux.
Protection
8 bolts. Fixed top anchor with two rappel rings is shared with 'Yellow Brick Road'. Stick clip the first bolt using the taped stick found nearby. A #3 or #2 can be placed between the 5th and 6th bolt to alleviate the runout.
This route can be climbed on top rope by first leading 'Yellow Brick Road'.
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