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BETA PHOTO: Rapping Upperdeck-n-spackle, you can see the first...
This has a pumpy, slightly overhanging start. Reach high for some tricky better than they look holds. You can belay your second from a kinda half-hanging belay, and then summit Wipeyur with a short third pitch by climbing directly above and clipping the last few bolts of F.U.D.G.E.
to a two bolt anchor.
This route is located on the upper deck ledge. It is the second bolted line from the right. You can access the ledge by climbing Tailwinds
, Mr. Hanky
, or Turd Burglar
. Above the mentioned route, there is some easly climbing past 3 or 4 bolts to gain access to the start of Upperdeck-n-spackle and F.U.D.G.E
7 or 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Jun 1, 2015
A really fun, slightly overhung jug haul. Good holds all the way. Getting to the first bolt from Upper Deck Ledge can be a little tough for the height-impaired, but there's such a big ledge, there isn't too much to worry about.
By Parker Wrozek
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great line. A must do for a mid-10s leader. Hands are there when you need them.
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 14, 2016
This is the best 10 I've done in Devil's Head so far. I just wish it was longer...rapping from the anchors of this route should put you just about on top of the extension of Mr. Hanky, where you should be able to do another rap to the ground if you have a 70m rope. Not sure if a 60m would reach the ground from here.