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Upper Washbowl Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Fritz) Wiesner Route T 
Butterflies are Free T 
Flashdance T 
Hesitation T 
Northern Revival T 
Overture T 
Partition T 
Prelude T 
Till the Fat Lady Sings T 
Weekend Warrior S 

Upper Washbowl Cliff 


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Page Views: 17,190
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: colin loher on Jun 11, 2008
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Seen from Chapel Pond Slab

Description 

Multipitch moderate mecca that overlooks Chapel pond and the great range. There are number of classic routes in the 5.8-5.11 range. The most popular three routes are: Hesitation, Partition, and Prelude/overature. The cliff is in the sun from 11:00am on. The rock quality ranges from immpeccable( most of the routes) to down right scary.


Getting There 

Approach as for the creature wall, from the creature wall follow a faint climbers trail for 20 minutes to the base of Hesitation/Weekend Warrior


Climbing Season


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Washbowl Cliff:
(Fritz) Wiesner Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hesitation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Prelude   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Butterflies are Free   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Partition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Overture   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Weekend Warrior   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Washbowl Cliff

Featured Route For Upper Washbowl Cliff
Pitch One

Hesitation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NY : Adirondacks : ... : Upper Washbowl Cliff
1 Climb 4" crack to overhang, up to crack and to belay stepping right consisting of pitons. 5.82 Climb up to roof and clip 3 pitons while traversing under the roof with mild runout. At the third piton turn the roof, and climb up the ramp with basically no gear for 25' to a single piton and gear belay. 5.7 PG 5.5 R Note the first piton is at the apex corner the second in the middle, and the third is below a ramp where you go straight up!!3 Climb up broken crack system to a ledge below a sick look...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Upper Washbowl Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Washbowl, winter 2013
Upper Washbowl, winter 2013
Upper Washbowl
BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl
Upper Washbowl Cliff (Detail)
BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl Cliff (Detail)
Closeup view from Chapel Pond Slabs.
Closeup view from Chapel Pond Slabs.
Partition is the long dark corner towards the left side of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Partition is the long dark corner towards the left...
Comments on Upper Washbowl Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 29, 2009

Descent Note: The Partition rappel is "problematic". Rappelling from the top of Partition with a single 60m rope gets you to the 3rd-class ramp but most likely will not make it to the fixed anchor (a cedar) above Mastercharge. A single 60m rope will not make it to the ground from here. There is a smaller cedar about half-way down with an awful stance that has a fixed anchor, though it has a continuously changing supply of leaver biners that are cleaned and then replaced (two ropes will get you to the ground).
The ledge the large cedar is on has a couple slots where the ropes can become jammed, so care needs to be taken to avoid this. You can wedge a stick in there to prevent the rope from running in the slots or ensure you run the ropes over the lip, and not in the slots.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 29, 2009

Regarding the descent -- the rappel on the right end of the cliff is really easy -- one rap with a 60m rope returns you to the base. Easy pull too. For some reason, this hasn't caught on. This also avoids rappelling over all the crowds on the Wiessner Route and neighboring routes.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 24, 2011

When rappelling from the large cedar on the 3rd class ledge, you can use a stick in the crack as a back-up but it is pretty easy to keep the ropes on the lip as you rappel. If you use the "stick in the crack" method, be sure to bring one from the ground. Don't break one off of the tree. Also, I didn't think the walk-off was all that bad. Yeah, it's loose in a few sections but it's pretty quick and hassle-free.

By Dominic Rickicki
Sep 16, 2013

the guidebook makes the walk off descent sound terrible but I didn't find the descent on the climbers left side of the cliff to be problematic at all, in fact it's no more difficult than hiking back down the approach trail. I would highly recommend saving yourself the hassle and just use the walk off. it's very easy to follow.

By Matt Luck
Oct 12, 2013

A 70m rope will reach from the top of Partition to the cedar on the 3rd class ledge and will also reach from the cedar to the ground.