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Upper Washbowl Cliff
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Fritz) Wiesner Route 
Butterflies are Free 
Flashdance 
Hesitation 
Northern Revival 
Overture 
Partition 
Prelude 
Till the Fat Lady Sings 
Weekend Warrior 

Upper Washbowl Cliff 


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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: colin loher on Jun 11, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl

Description 

Multipitch moderate mecca that overlooks Chapel pond and the great range. There are number of classic routes in the 5.8-5.11 range. The most popular three routes are: Hesitation, Partition, and Prelude/overature. The cliff is in the sun from 11:00am on. The rock quality ranges from immpeccable( most of the routes) to down right scary.


Getting There 

Approach as for the creature wall, from the creature wall follow a faint climbers trail for 20 minutes to the base of Hesitation/Weekend Warrior


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Washbowl Cliff:
(Fritz) Wiesner Route   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   
Hesitation   5.8 R     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   
Prelude   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Butterflies are Free   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   
Partition   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Overture   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Weekend Warrior   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Northern Revival   5.12c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 360 feet   
Browse More Classics in Upper Washbowl Cliff

Featured Route For Upper Washbowl Cliff
Partition (5.9-)

Partition 5.9  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Upper Washbowl Cliff
P1: recommended start variation is Butterflies Are Free (100 feet, 5.9-)P2: the huge dihedral with a crack (5.9) sits above the 3rd class ramp. Very sustained. In some places no real features for stemming. Left wall below the offwith was dripping wet but I was able to use the right side "ramp" and stemming to move into the overhanging offwith. It felt more like 5.10. Stand up, and high reach will get you to better, if rounded, holds and exit....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY


Photos of Upper Washbowl Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Washbowl Cliff (Detail)

BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl Cliff (Detail)

Seen from Chapel Pond Slab

Seen from Chapel Pond Slab

Closeup view from Chapel Pond Slabs.

Closeup view from Chapel Pond Slabs.

Upper Washbowl, winter 2013

Upper Washbowl, winter 2013

Partition is the long dark corner towards the left side of the photo.

BETA PHOTO: Partition is the long dark corner towards the left...


Comments on Upper Washbowl Cliff Add Comment
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By Greg Kuchyt
Aug 29, 2009

Descent Note: The Partition rappel is "problematic". Rappelling from the top of Partition with a single 60m rope gets you to the 3rd-class ramp but most likely will not make it to the fixed anchor (a cedar) above Mastercharge. A single 60m rope will not make it to the ground from here. There is a smaller cedar about half-way down with an awful stance that has a fixed anchor, though it has a continuously changing supply of leaver biners that are cleaned and then replaced (two ropes will get you to the ground).
The ledge the large cedar is on has a couple slots where the ropes can become jammed, so care needs to be taken to avoid this. You can wedge a stick in there to prevent the rope from running in the slots or ensure you run the ropes over the lip, and not in the slots.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 29, 2009

Regarding the descent -- the rappel on the right end of the cliff is really easy -- one rap with a 60m rope returns you to the base. Easy pull too. For some reason, this hasn't caught on. This also avoids rappelling over all the crowds on the Wiessner Route and neighboring routes.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 24, 2011

When rappelling from the large cedar on the 3rd class ledge, you can use a stick in the crack as a back-up but it is pretty easy to keep the ropes on the lip as you rappel. If you use the "stick in the crack" method, be sure to bring one from the ground. Don't break one off of the tree. Also, I didn't think the walk-off was all that bad. Yeah, it's loose in a few sections but it's pretty quick and hassle-free.