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DescriptionMultipitch moderate mecca that overlooks Chapel pond and the great range. There are number of classic routes in the 5.8-5.11 range. The most popular three routes are: Hesitation, Partition, and Prelude/overature. The cliff is in the sun from 11:00am on. The rock quality ranges from immpeccable( most of the routes) to down right scary. Getting ThereApproach as for the creature wall, from the creature wall follow a faint climbers trail for 20 minutes to the base of Hesitation/Weekend Warrior The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Washbowl Cliff:
(Fritz) Wiesner Route 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Hesitation 5.8 R Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet
Prelude 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Butterflies are Free 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet
Partition 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Overture 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Weekend Warrior 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Northern Revival 5.12c PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 360 feet
Featured Route For Upper Washbowl Cliff
Partition 5.9 NY : Adirondacks : ... : Upper Washbowl Cliff
P1: recommended start variation is Butterflies Are Free (100 feet, 5.9-)P2: the huge dihedral with a crack (5.9) sits above the 3rd class ramp. Very sustained. In some places no real features for stemming. Left wall below the offwith was dripping wet but I was able to use the right side "ramp" and stemming to move into the overhanging offwith. It felt more like 5.10. Stand up, and high reach will get you to better, if rounded, holds and exit....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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