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Upper Walt's Rocks

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1995 Budget Closure S 
At Your Pleasure T 
Crack Queen T 
Drag Queen T 
Mojave Queen T 
Route Beer T 
Upper Mojave T 
Where Were You? T 
White Rain T 

Upper Walt's Rocks Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 1,755
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 16, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Bobby P. copping a lieback on the Mojave Queen cra...


This is a cliff stacked with quality lines that more than make up for the somewhat lengthy (especially by Josh standards) approach. The rock is typically of exceptional quality with dark patina throughout and the cracks are often parallel, deep and smooth - none of that light-colored grain so common in the rest of the Park!

Numerous multi-star crack and face routes exisit up to 150 feet in length although most are around 100 feet or so. The only catch is the majority of the best routes are 5.11a and harder, although exceptions do exist.

Some of the best here include At Your Pleasure (5.8), Escape to Queen Mountain (5.10a), White Rain (5.11a), Mojave Queen (5.11a), Crack Queen (5.11a), Upper Mojave (5.11a) and Drag Queen (5.11c R).

Routes listed from left to right:

Route Beer (5.11a)
Get with the Plan (5.10b)
Hellish Planet (5.10d)
At Your Pleasure (5.8)
Where Were You? (5.10a)
Unknown (5.10a)
Upper Mojave (5.11a)
Mojave Queen (5.11a)
White Rain (5.11a)

Just right of a small break in the cliffline are

Endorphine (5.10d)
Drag Queen (5.11c R)
No Metal Wasted (5.9+ R)
Crack Queen (5.11a)

And about 200' right of White Rain is

Escape to Queen Mountain (5.10a)

Getting There 

See the Walt's Rock page for detailed approach information.

Climbing Season

For the Queen Mountain area.

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Walt's Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Walt's Rocks:
At Your Pleasure   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Upper Mojave   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Crack Queen   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
White Rain   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Mojave Queen   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Walt's Rocks

Featured Route For Upper Walt's Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: white rain being led and crack queen

White Rain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Upper Walt's Rocks
White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book. The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Upper Walt's Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Upper Walt's Rocks.  White Rain goes ...
Left side of Upper Walt's Rocks. White Rain goes ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side of Upper Walt's Rocks.  The obvious cra...
Right side of Upper Walt's Rocks. The obvious cra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Walt's Rocks. Photo by Blitzo.
Upper Walt's Rocks. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo/topo for Upper Walt's Rocks, Joshua Tree NP....
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for Upper Walt's Rocks, Joshua Tree NP....

Comments on Upper Walt's Rocks Add Comment
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By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 25, 2013
Descent beta : A lot of options under the various routes have been mentioned for rapping off the top. With one 60m it's pretty easy to rap "where were you" from the very top. This bolted anchor is easily spotted to climber's left of a small break to the left of mojave queen and upper mojave. After "where were you" you'll be on the halfway ledge and one more rap (1995 budget closure I think) will take you to the ground.

This is really the simple and obvious thing to do. There is no need for two ropes, swinging uphill with a 70, or any sort of improbable walk off. This has probably been said already but here it is again.

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