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Upper Upper West Bolton

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Upper Upper West Bolton  


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Page Views: 8,132
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012
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  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • For access issues: please review cragvt.org

  • Description 

    Upper Upper West Bolton Cliff is the largest cliff on Bolton Notch road, past Upper West and at the very top of the notch. The cliff is about .25 miles wide and up to 300' tall. The dominant angle of the face is around 70-80 degrees with the occasional overlap to spice things up. Routes are 1-3 pitches in length and from 5.7 - 5.12 in difficulty with most of the pitches falling in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. Some of the routes can be a bit on the chossy side so watch out especially on fragile edge features. Some of the best moderate pitches in Bolton are found at this cliff.

    NOTE : This area is generally closed from April to August for peregrine nesting. Please abide by the signs and stay away from posted areas. CRAG-VT has established a good working relationship between climbers and the peregrine biologists, so let's please not jeopardize access.

    Getting There 

    Leave route 2 and head up Bolton Notch road for about 5 miles passing both lower west bolton cliff on the right and Upper West Bolton cliff on the left until you see the cliff on the left. You can't miss it. Park at the Preston ponds trailhead (up to 4 cars may comfortably park here). Take the Preston Ponds trail right between the beaver ponds and head up hill for a short distance until a side trail becomes visible on the right which will take you to the main wall of Double Upper.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 7.8 miles from here

    16 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Upper West Bolton:
    Noises in the Night   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Wild West Wall
    Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.)   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Main Face
    Milk Train   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Wild West Wall
    Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Main Face
    Browse More Classics in Upper Upper West Bolton

    Featured Route For Upper Upper West Bolton
    Above the crux overhang on Peregrination

    Peregrination 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  VT : Bolton Area : ... : Main Face
    P1 - 120' 5.10c 5.7 PG13 - Look for a bolt about 20' up juggy, dirty face climbing. Follow three bolts up to a 5.8 slab section and a shallow ledge with a juggy flake. Clip a bolt and pull a roof onto hollow holds. Beware of a loose quartz hold at the roof. Move up and left on hollow flakes to a bolt and continue trending up and left on 5.6/7 terrain to the big roof. Make an exposed clip (slightly runout) over the roof and pull the roof to a stance.Climb past 3 more bolts to a spacious belay ...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

    Comments on Upper Upper West Bolton Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ira O'Meara
    From: Hardwick, VT
    Jul 28, 2015
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Watch out for aggresive peregrines! The cliff is open but we share it with birds tgat were trying to scare us away, acting agro and dive bombing us at both belays on ENS. They went away when they realized we weren't food. Young birds full of beans, checking us out. Added some excitement!
    By Seth Maciejowski
    Apr 28, 2012
    One of my favorite crags. It's a shame that most people don't really know what the routes are here for the most part. Hopefully that will change with the guidebook coming out. I put a few up here for people to check out, I'll leave the rest for your sense of adventure.

    NOTE : This cliff is closed entirely through Aug 1 generally due to nesting peregrines. Please adhere to the climbing ban.
    By Devin Krevetski
    From: West Woodstock, VT
    Aug 21, 2012
    Some routes here seem to have traditionally spaced bolts. I wouldn't suggest using the bolted routes here to "break into the grade"
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