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Upper Town Wall

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Upper Town Wall 


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Location: 47.824, -121.5655 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,037
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 19, 2012
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Pat almost to the top of p 1 of heavens gate

Description 

The huge wall sitting above the town of Index visible from the road into town. Has routes both short and long, both aid and free, and both trad and sport. At about 30-min, it has a longer approach than the 2-min one to the Lower Wall, but well worth the hike.

Classic aid lines include Town Crier and Green Dragon. Great multipitch free routes include the Davis-Holland, Wildest Dreams, and Heaven's Gate. Also many 1-pitch routes at the base. The Cheeks area has routes that tend to stay dry in a rain and easy-to-set-up top ropes.
(Based on original Description and Getting There from Jonah, 2006)


Getting There 

From the Lower Wall parking, follow the train tracks to the Country area. Walk to the far right of the clearing, near the start of GM (there may be a notice board up) and follow the obvious path uphill to the base of the central wall area.


58 Total Routes


['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',11],['5.11',22],['5.12',18],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Town Wall:
The Zipper   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Cheeks
Lovin' Arms   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   Central Wall Area
Davis-Holland Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Central Wall Area
Sideshow   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   Earwax Wall
Heaven's Gate   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches   Dana's Arch Area
Green Drag-on   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3     Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 500'   Central Wall Area
Up'er Zipper   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   The Beach
Dana's Arch   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3     Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches   Dana's Arch Area
Earwax   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Earwax Wall
Golden Road   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   Dana's Arch Area
Clay   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Lower Cheeks
Black Sea   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   The Black Sea
Echolocation   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Black Sea
Gods Bones   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   The Black Sea
Swim   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0     Trad, Sport, Aid, 6 pitches, 500'   Central Wall Area
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   The Beach
Tempituous   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Dana's Arch Area
Normandy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   The Beach
Wildest Dreams   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   Dana's Arch Area
Town Crier   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2     Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 700'   Central Wall Area
Browse More Classics in Upper Town Wall

Featured Route For Upper Town Wall
Earwax follows the crack, but is mostly face moves to the roof. Bottom 15' or so not shown. Rope is hanging down Young Cynics.

Earwax 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WA : Index : ... : Earwax Wall
Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75'. The original first pitch went another 55' to a higher anchor with a harder crux, making a 130', stellar thin crack pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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