Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lower Slot Right T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Upper Slot Left 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the right-facing corner to the left of Upper Slot. The crux is moving off the ledge: there are good jams (and gear), but it's quite strenuous to get going. Once you get going, look to the right for some useful face holds for your right foot. Those with long legs can stem over to the right to a seam after a few moves to get a rest and take the edge off a bit. The crack gradually widens and the difficulty eases off considerably.

Location 

This route is the corner to the left of Upper Slot. The route links very nicely with Lower Slot. Use the bolted rappel anchor to rap off the backside of the formation. Use one of several options to downclimb from there.

Protection 

Standard rack. A couple of bigger pieces (#5, #6 Camalot) will be useful as the crack widens towards the top. A bolted rappel anchor can be used for a belay at the top. Although my partner didn't build a gear anchor, it looks like there are options if the bolted anchor is otherwise occupied.


Comments on Upper Slot Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a quality splitter with overhanging hand jams and poor feet to start. Then up the wide crack with arm bars and face climbing to a squeeze chimney, which I had difficulty getting through. Best to belay off the bolts.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 19, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The feet are really only terrible if you're using a different (read: harder) sequence. Think about this one a bit before you leave the ledge. The hand jams are really good, so there's your hint. I once watched Craig Luebben flail, just completely thrutch trying to get off the ground on this one on account of a too-tight toprope and an inclination to use the obvious beta. So, think it through before you do it.