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Upper Security Risk

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"S" Buttress, The 
Cold Shot 
Cracking the Code 
Crash Test Blondes 
Get Smart 
Hot Flyer 
Hot Wire 
Juice, The 
Just A Little Insecure 
Led Astray 
Plan B 
S Buttress Direct 

Upper Security Risk 

Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,450'
Location: 40.0048, -105.3931 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,037
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Upper Security Risk, Boulder Canyon.
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Mainly sport climbing, but there are some trad lines also. I haven't climbed much here, but there are some high quality sport climbs especially in the more difficult grades. Most of the routes are long, so bring up to 14 QDs. Bring tape for the crack climbs.

    There have been eagle nesting closures which have limited access to this crag in the Feb. 1 - July 31 timeframe.


    A. S Buttress, 9+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts from B.
    B. Pup, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
    C. Crash Test Blondes, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
    DA. S Buttress Direct, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
    E. Led Astray, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
    F. Crossfire, 9, 1p, gear.
    G. Cracking The Code, 11, 2-3p, bolts.
    H. Just a Little Insecure, 12-, 1p, bolts.
    I. Get Smart, 10+ R, 1p, 100', gear.
    J. Plan B, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.
    K. The Juice, 12+, 1p, bolts.
    KL. The Juiced Flyer, 12-, 1p, bolts.
    L. Hot Flyer, 11+, 1p, gear or bolts.
    M. Hot Wire, 12+, 1p, 100', bolts.
    N. Cappuchino, 10+ R/X, 1p, gear.
    O. Espresso, 10+, R, 1p, gear.

    Getting There 

    Hike as you would to Happy Hour Crag, but instead of veering left, keep heading straight up the hill.

    13 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Security Risk:
    Pup   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
    Get Smart   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Cold Shot   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Cracking the Code   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   
    Crash Test Blondes   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Hot Flyer   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Plan B   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Hot Wire   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    The Juice   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Classics in Upper Security Risk

    Featured Route For Upper Security Risk
    Dan Levison pulling the roof on The Juice.  Photo taken by Adam Brink.

    The Juice 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Upper Security Risk
    This route is 15 feet right of Plan B, and is another guaranteed super-classic. Climb 40 feet of tricky 5.11 to a nice no-hands rest, then begin the business. The route stays continuously difficult for another 35 feet through a capping roof, though the crux is noticeably harder than the rest of the route (and REALLY hard for shorter people). If you're really tall (like, over 6 foot by at least a few inches), the crux will come statically and relatively easily. For everyone else (mys...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Comments on Upper Security Risk Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Joshua Lewis
    Mar 21, 2002

    Had a close encounter with a huge Golden Eagle on the Solar Dome about a month ago. Partner was near the top of Altoids when this thing just stalled right above her for a moment--seemed like within 10'. It'd be great if there were more of these incredible creatures flying around--please respect these closures; they'll benefit us all in the long run.

    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 8, 2010

    Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
    Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

    These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

    The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
    For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at>>>.