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 ADVANCED
Upper Security Risk

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"S" Buttress, The T 
Cold Shot S 
Cracking the Code S 
Crash Test Blondes S 
Get Smart T 
Hot Flyer S 
Hot Wire S 
Juice, The S 
Just A Little Insecure S 
Led Astray S 
Plan B S 
Pup S,TR 
S Buttress Direct T 

Upper Security Risk  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,450'
Location: 40.0048, -105.3931 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,710
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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Chance of Rain
54° | 34°
Clear
53° | 30°
Clear
54° | 41°
Clear
62° | 42°
Clear
62° | 43°
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mainly sport climbing, but there are some trad lines also. I haven't climbed much here, but there are some high quality sport climbs especially in the more difficult grades. Most of the routes are long, so bring up to 14 QDs. Bring tape for the crack climbs.

There have been eagle nesting closures which have limited access to this crag in the Feb. 1 - July 31 timeframe.

L->R:

A. S Buttress, 9+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts from B.
B. Pup, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
C. Crash Test Blondes, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
DA. S Buttress Direct, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
E. Led Astray, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Crossfire, 9, 1p, gear.
G. Cracking The Code, 11, 2-3p, bolts.
H. Just a Little Insecure, 12-, 1p, bolts.
I. Get Smart, 10+ R, 1p, 100', gear.
J. Plan B, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.
K. The Juice, 12+, 1p, bolts.
KL. The Juiced Flyer, 12-, 1p, bolts.
L. Hot Flyer, 11+, 1p, gear or bolts.
M. Hot Wire, 12+, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Cappuchino, 10+ R/X, 1p, gear.
O. Espresso, 10+, R, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

Hike as you would to Happy Hour Crag, but instead of veering left, keep heading straight up the hill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Security Risk:
Pup   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Get Smart   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Cracking the Code   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   
Crash Test Blondes   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Hot Flyer   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Plan B   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Hot Wire   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Juice   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Upper Security Risk

Featured Route For Upper Security Risk
Dan Levison pulling the roof on The Juice.  Photo taken by Adam Brink.

The Juice 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Upper Security Risk
This route is 15 feet right of Plan B, and is another guaranteed super-classic. Climb 40 feet of tricky 5.11 to a nice no-hands rest, then begin the business. The route stays continuously difficult for another 35 feet through a capping roof, though the crux is noticeably harder than the rest of the route (and REALLY hard for shorter people). If you're really tall (like, over 6 foot by at least a few inches), the crux will come statically and relatively easily. For everyone else (mys...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Upper Security Risk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshua Lewis
Mar 21, 2002
Had a close encounter with a huge Golden Eagle on the Solar Dome about a month ago. Partner was near the top of Altoids when this thing just stalled right above her for a moment--seemed like within 10'. It'd be great if there were more of these incredible creatures flying around--please respect these closures; they'll benefit us all in the long run.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 8, 2010
Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/r....