Upper Right Ski Track 5.3
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.3 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Apr 15, 2001 |
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The final crux of Upper Right Ski track
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Description This description is only for Upper Right Ski Track. Lower Right Ski Track is treated as separate climbs, so I am listing them that way. However, I prefer long pitches and chose to climb the both in a single 60M+ pitch. This requires a 60 or 70M rope and a larger rack but is worth the time and effort.
On intersection Rock, there are three main cracks running diagonally up and left from the base. These are visible from the North side (from the Hidden Valley Campground) and are called, from right to left, Right Ski Track, Left Ski Track, and Half Track. These are plainly visible in the attached photograph.
Right Ski Track is the right-most of the three climbs, and starts as a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral, climbing 60 feet or so to a ledge that may be traversed onto from a scramble up the West end of the Rock. Below said ledge is Lower Right Ski Track (5.10c). Above this ledge is Upper RST (5.3).
Access the climb via Lower RST, or scramble up the shoulder of Intersection Rock from the West End, roping up and traversing out left (East-ward) along a sloping ramp to the crack. Build a belay and get ready to climb. The route-finding is not difficult, as you will simply follow the crack to the top. Once up top, sling rocks or set gear to bring up the second.There is no particular crux that I noticed. The climb is a fun and easy route with some good jamming and stemming.
From the top, head to the West end and rap off.
Protection The route is quite well protected, as long as you have an ample rack of hand-to-fist sized pieces. A full set of cams up to 4" combined with a full set of hexes #7-11 should do the trick quite well, but if you want to sew it up, then rack up even more heavily.
A few more cams, including one large piece (#4 cam or #10 hex) might be useful at the belay at the base of the pitch (above Lower Right Ski Track) if you are starting in from there.
BETA PHOTO: Intersection Rock - West Face
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fun. exposed. great rapp back down.
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BETA PHOTO: Intersection Rock - North Face
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Shiloh on Upper Ski Track
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Right Ski Track
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A shot on the route looking down.
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Charlie Hoffman finishing Upper Right Ski Track. T...
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Jason and Myong on Upper Right Ski Track.
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Sadie on Upper Right Ski Track.
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| Comments on Upper Right Ski Track |
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By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007
| Great beginner climb to get someone used to exposure, but not necessarily the best climb to start leading in. Because the climb leans (a fall, though unlikely, would involved a pendulum) and gets stranger at the top, beginning leaders should probably follow this climb first or get confident on higher grades. Lots of pro options once you get into the crack, but more .75-1.5" pieces probably. Higher up gets a little wierd if your not used to the deep flarey style of josh cracks you need to get up with heel/toe cams and hands for balance.
From the top go 10-15' leftish and there will be a horizontal crack in a boulder to use medium sized and smaller gear to belay from. |
By attila
Feb 26, 2010
| Protects well, a fun route. Just take medium and large cams, maybe medium nuts and you're good. |
By Johnny Ice
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2011
| Take big gear. The crack is bigger than it appears from the ground. It felt harder than 5.3 to me but I also had tunnel vision that day. If you don't mind older folks taking pictures of you, this is a fun climb. |
By Josh Cameron
Aug 20, 2011
| The crack in the back takes many large nuts, but the placements aren't always obvious. This way you can leave the big cams on the ground. |
By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Feb 22, 2012
| Has anyone linked this with the 5.8 face between the two tracks? Looks like a lot of fun, but was wondering how the face section was... |
By Bob Gaines
Feb 23, 2012
| I led that upper face when I did the FA of Trapeze center. It's about 5.6 R. |
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