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Upper Meadow

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Upper Meadow Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
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Kevin Umbel digging into the Corner Pocket (13a) a...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There 

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

77 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',37],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',19],['5.11',21],['5.12',22],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Meadow:
King Lichen Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Third Buttress
Ben Dunne   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   First Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Supermoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Vanished   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Third Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Third Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Third Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Second Buttress
First, Last, and Always   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
The Prow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Lamda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Elliott   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Cambodia
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   First Buttress
Eye of Mordor   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   First Buttress
Bittersweet   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Corner Pocket   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Boomerang   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   First Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Meadow

Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Rock Climbing Photo: upper dihedral wall

Coffindaffer's Dream 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Third Buttress
This thing is so good! It has a lot of different types of climbing packed into one. Start up through a collection of horizontals with a long move up to the base of the roof. From here use your heels and make a reach to perfectly sculpted holds. Get a no hands rest and then finish up through the corner system using any type of hold you can imagine. A perfect warm-up for the other routes in the area. There are numerous rests on this route, so it may seem pretty easy for the grade....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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