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Upper Meadow

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First Buttress 
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Upper Meadow Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,146
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
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Warming up on cross eyed and blind

Description 

Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There 

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

69 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',17],['5.11',19],['5.12',19],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Meadow:
Berecik   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Zero Buttress
King Lichen Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Third Buttress
Ben Dunne   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   First Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Supermoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Pistol Whip   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   Second Buttress
Vanished   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Third Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Third Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Third Buttress
First, Last, and Always   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Second Buttress
Lamda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
The Prow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   First Buttress
Eye of Mordor   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   First Buttress
Corner Pocket   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Boomerang   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   First Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Meadow

Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred Gomez warming up on Push

Push 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
This route is classic! It's worth coming to this crag for this route alone! Start by climbing up a blocky section of rock to reach the first bolt. From here, climb straight up making some tricky moves to reach the obvious hueco at the 4th bolt. Next, make a traverse right for about 6 feet to reach a vertical seam and eventually a really good stance. Continue up and then make a long easy traverse back left to clip the 5th bolt. It looks a bit run out, but it's a clean fall and the hard...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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