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Upper Meadow

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First Buttress 
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Upper Meadow Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,117
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013


58° | 45°

51° | 31°

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Alex moving into the steep jugs after crushing the...


Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There 

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

67 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Meadow:
King Lichen Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Third Buttress
Rodent's Party   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Second Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Mr. Cute   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Third Buttress
Supermoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Vanished   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Third Buttress
Meathead   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Third Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Third Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Second Buttress
First, Last, and Always   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Lamda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
The Prow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   First Buttress
Boomerang   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   First Buttress
Eye of Mordor   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   First Buttress
Corner Pocket   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Meadow

Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Rock Climbing Photo: H Nguyen, ending the powerful crux sequence

First, Last, and Always 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Third Buttress
A long and adventurous route leads past several interesting sequences separated by good rests.Be careful climbing past some flaky rock at the 1st bolt. Continue up an easier slab and crack section to a stance at the 4th bolt. Move up, clip the 5th bolt, and traverse left to a nice layback move up to a ledge with the 6th bolt. Rest up here for the crux. Reach up high to crimps and deadpoint to a good ledge. Clip the 7th bolt and negotiate the angled flake and a crimp to reach the ledge above the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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