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Upper Highway
Gibbon Slacklines Surf Line Slackline

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Mammut Hammer Cord - 150m

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Aspen Trail Boulders 
Mount Bigelow 
Not So Steep 
Raycreation Area 
Reef of Rocks 
South Park 
Steep, The 
Wilderness of Rocks 
Wilderness of Rocks Domes 

Upper Highway 


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Elevation: 8,000'
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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Jul 12, 2010

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A shot of Mt. Bigelow through the Rime Ice covered...

Description 

The Upper Highway area covers crags and climbs from Palisades Ranger Station (milepost 19.4) on up to the top if the mountain. It includes areas near the summit, but accessed by means other than the Summit Crags.

This section of the mountain will likely be very cold, or under snow, in winter months. Seasonal closures for raptor nesting in some areas further shorten the climbing season here. But when access is open and weather permits, the Upper Mountain offers some of the longest and most committing routes on the mountain.

Upper Highway is not included as a chapter in Squeezing the Lemmon II, but will be consistent with Eric's new guide when it is published.


Getting There 

Catalina Highway


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Highway:
Jaws   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Reef of Rocks : Neptune
X-Ray   5.9-     Sport, 40 feet   Raycreation Area : Upper Wall
Jackie's Separation Anxiety   5.9-     Sport, 45 feet   Raycreation Area : Upper Wall
Warm and Free   5.10- PG13     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Reef of Rocks : Neptune
Shanashee   5.10- PG13     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Reef of Rocks : Neptune
Rapture of the Steep   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade II   Reef of Rocks : Neptune
Raytallyation   5.10     Sport, 40 feet   Raycreation Area : Upper Wall
Pocket Protector   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 60 feet   Mount Bigelow : Trundle Pinnacle
Odyssey   5.11-     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Reef of Rocks : Poseidon
Sting Ray, AKA Geirless Warrior   5.11-     Sport, 50 feet   Raycreation Area : Upper Wall
Raycreation   5.11     Sport, 55 feet   Raycreation Area : Upper Wall
Spiderman   5.11     Sport, 70 feet   The Steep
Kick in the Nuts   5.11c     Sport, 85 feet   South Park
Stepping Into Blue Sky   5.11c     Sport, 2 pitches, 90 feet   The Steep
Venezuelan Mafia    5.11+     Sport, 45 feet   Raycreation Area : Lower Wall
Iron Butterfly   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Mount Bigelow : Butterfly Wall
Ma'adim   5.12a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 375 feet   Reef of Rocks : Neptune
Monster Buck   5.12-     Sport, 55 feet   Raycreation Area : Lower Wall
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent   5.12     Sport, 50 feet   The Steep
Firefly   5.12c     Sport, 115 feet   Mount Bigelow : Butterfly Wall
Browse More Classics in Upper Highway

Featured Route For Upper Highway
The Neptune. Jaws is in the upper left part of the picture in the corner where the black face and the green face meet.

Jaws 5.8  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Neptune
While this route only checks in at a mere 5.8, you'll find it to be a worthy outing if you enjoy clean wide cracks. The grade doesn't reflect the nature of the climbing - it feels BIG in every sense of the word.Belay on a good ledge at the base of the offwidth which is about 70' off the deck (gear: chockstone, two .75's which may be tricky to find, and/or #5 Friend.) There are two ways to get to this point: either climb directly up (5.11), or traverse in from the left (5.7+).The first 1/3 ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Upper Highway Slideshow Add Photo
Bouldering by the stream...upper mountain

Bouldering by the stream...upper mountain

Greg, after the crux of Biosfear.  If you also do Crackhunter, the hike out is worth it.  Then traverse over to Southpark to finish off the day.

Greg, after the crux of Biosfear. If you also do ...

Bouldery start on this cool gear lead. "C"

Bouldery start on this cool gear lead. "C"