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Upper Gibraltar

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Route Runs Through It 
Crescent Direct, The 
Crescent, The 
Dazed and Confused 
Gibbon, The 
Slacker 
Soul, The 
Triple Overhang 

Upper Gibraltar 


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Lat, Long: 34.4767, -119.6791 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,897
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 5, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Preliminary topo for upper gibraltar, feel free to...

Description 

Upper Gibraltar and Toxic Waste Wall together provide a high concentration of quality sport climbs mostly in the 5.10 range. One can spend a half day and log 8 pitches, and still have time to hit happy hour downtown. The panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean make for one of the more aesthetic cragging areas along the Central Coast, so be sure to pack the camera. South-facing means sun all day. This is a great winter crag, and rather miserable in the summer. Watch for poison oak at the base of the routes and along the approach trail.

Several routes on Upper Gibraltar are greater than 100'! Bring a second rope or a single 70m. If all you have is a single 60m, exercise extreme caution when lowering.

I like to bring a light rack (a few TCUs and larger cams to 2") to supplement bolt protection on a few of the routes. In addition, there are a handful of trad lines in the 5.6 to 5.8 range.


Getting There 

Approach as for Toxic Waste Wall. Continue uphill past the right right end of TW along a good climbers' trail, until it is possible to scramble up to the left. Negotiate a couple of bouldering moves and continue right along the base of the cliff. Allow 10 minutes or so from the car.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Gibraltar:
Triple Overhang   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Dazed and Confused   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Gibbon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
A Route Runs Through It   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Gibraltar

Featured Route For Upper Gibraltar
Cutting loose on A Route Runs Through It.

A Route Runs Through It 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CA : Central Coast : ... : Upper Gibraltar
Perhaps the best line on the wall. Start right of Dazed and Confused. A tricky start leads to easier climbing past several bolts. Pull through the steep roof (awesome!), and continue up vertical crimpfest and crux....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Upper Gibraltar
Photos of Upper Gibraltar Slideshow Add Photo
View of the leftmost side of Upper Gibraltar (as seen from the Psuedomania area.)
View of the leftmost side of Upper Gibraltar (as s...
Topo for Upper Gibraltar <br />BLUE: Triple Overhang <br />PURPLE: Dazed & Confused <br />ORANGE: a Route Runs Through It <br />RED: the Crescent Direct <br />YELLOW: the Soul <br />GREEN: the Gibbon
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Upper Gibraltar
BLUE: Triple Overhang
PUR...
View from the top of Upper Gibraltar
View from the top of Upper Gibraltar
Upper Gibraltar
Upper Gibraltar
Romain Wacziarg climbs the start of Dazed & Confused at Upper Gibraltar.
Romain Wacziarg climbs the start of Dazed & Confus...
Upper Gibraltar from road - Directly below in parking spot - For perspective.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Gibraltar from road - Directly below in park...
Comments on Upper Gibraltar Add Comment
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By EricT
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 8, 2006

Watch out for the bee's nest at the middle ledge on the left. On the up side, they seem pretty friendly.

By Benjiman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 12, 2007

The approach to the bottom of this crag is class 4 and can be kind treacherous for newbies, short people, and people not accustomed to climbing in their hiking shoes. An easier approach is probably to head out the trail to cold springs dome and then look for a overgrown path that leads to the right before cold springs dome comes into view. This path leads to the top of the crag.

By marc girardot
Jan 17, 2012

Went here 1/6/2011. I want to restate what Benjiman stated, while not a long hike, it was treacherous. Loose rock underfoot makes it extremely difficult to get to the routes. I'll just say that I came from Atlanta, GA, had these routes planned to do but decided against them due to the hike in.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 4, 2012

To avoid the 4th class approach referred to in previous posts, I highly recommend taking the climbers trail up the ridge from Hole in the Rock (directly above the parking for Gibraltar) and then rappelling in from the top of the cliff. There is a well maintained trail leading right to the top of the cliff.

Be aware, a 70m rope only touches the base when the rope is weighted (and stretched)--most routes here are just over 35m tall.