Upper Gibraltar and Toxic Waste Wall together provide a high concentration of quality sport climbs mostly in the 5.10 range. One can spend a half day and log 8 pitches, and still have time to hit happy hour downtown. The panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean make for one of the more aesthetic cragging areas along the Central Coast, so be sure to pack the camera. South-facing means sun all day. This is a great winter crag, and rather miserable in the summer. Watch for poison oak at the base of the routes and along the approach trail.
Several routes on Upper Gibraltar are greater than 100'! Bring a second rope or a single 70m. If all you have is a single 60m, exercise extreme caution when lowering.
I like to bring a light rack (a few TCUs and larger cams to 2") to supplement bolt protection on a few of the routes. In addition, there are a handful of trad lines in the 5.6 to 5.8 range.
Approach as for Toxic Waste Wall. Continue uphill past the right right end of TW along a good climbers' trail, until it is possible to scramble up to the left. Negotiate a couple of bouldering moves and continue right along the base of the cliff. Allow 10 minutes or so from the car.
8 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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|Comments on Upper Gibraltar
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 8, 2006
Watch out for the bee's nest at the middle ledge on the left. On the up side, they seem pretty friendly.
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 12, 2007
The approach to the bottom of this crag is class 4 and can be kind treacherous for newbies, short people, and people not accustomed to climbing in their hiking shoes. An easier approach is probably to head out the trail to cold springs dome and then look for a overgrown path that leads to the right before cold springs dome comes into view. This path leads to the top of the crag.
|By marc girardot|
Jan 17, 2012
Went here 1/6/2011. I want to restate what Benjiman stated, while not a long hike, it was treacherous. Loose rock underfoot makes it extremely difficult to get to the routes. I'll just say that I came from Atlanta, GA, had these routes planned to do but decided against them due to the hike in.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 4, 2012
To avoid the 4th class approach referred to in previous posts, I highly recommend taking the climbers trail up the ridge from Hole in the Rock (directly above the parking for Gibraltar) and then rappelling in from the top of the cliff. There is a well maintained trail leading right to the top of the cliff.
Be aware, a 70m rope only touches the base when the rope is weighted (and stretched)--most routes here are just over 35m tall.