Upper Finger Direct  5.9+ X

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Michael Dudley, 1967 Submitted By:  Bosier Parsons on Nov 8, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Upper Finger Direct, showing the line and the prot...

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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a direct pitch up the steep slab above the Finger on the Finger Face of North Gateway Rock, leading up to the upper anchor on Tidrick's. The climb is very sustained for the first 50 feet and is quite dangerous getting to the second fixed piece of protection.

Leading off from the 2-pin anchor at the top of the Finger, climb about 10 feet to a scary Star-drive bolt that sticks about half-way out. Then climb another 20 feet or so to reach a solid, ring-angle piton. This section is rather difficult and scary (right up to where you can reach the piton) and a fall before clipping would probably guarantee serious injury, as the Star-drive will likely rip, leading to a factor 2 fall onto the anchor, as well as likely falling onto your belayer and/or the Finger pillar itself. After clipping, move left then up another 20 feet or so to another pin, followed by a pothole thread. From here, it appears you could climb straight up to the big ledge, but the flakes look very loose here, and this would not be recommended if your partner or other climbers are below. Instead, move left where you can join the last pitch of Tidrick's at its final pin, then up to the anchor.

Due to the serious nature of this route, it is not recommended as a lead, unless you are an extremely strong climber. To approach, climb the Lower Finger Direct, Lower Finger Traverse, or Finger Ramp, and continue above the chain anchor to the top of the pillar which is the Finger.

To toprope, climb Tidrick's, Upper Finger Traverse, or the Boucher-Twombly Route to access the upper anchor of Tidrick's, then rappel or lower in.

Protection 

1 Star-drive bolt, 3 pitons, pothole thread. 2 drilled angles for anchor. Descend by making two single rope rappels.

Photos of Upper Finger Direct Slideshow

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John Thomson, on top-rope from the upper anchor on...