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Upper East Face

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Beaver, The T 
Kiener's Route T 
Notch Couloir, The T 
Zumie's Thumb T 

Upper East Face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,000'
Location: 40.25444, -105.61193 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 213,904
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2006
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Zumie's Thumb from the Loft.

Description 

This is the area that is somewhat broken above the left side of the Lower East Face. It faces east or northeast depending on exactly where you are.

Some of the better known routes in this less-traveled section include Zumie's Thumb, 5.9; Teeter Totter Pillar, 5.8; and The Window, 5.7 or M6; Kiener's Route, 5.3; Notch Couloir, easy snow. There is probably plenty of room for exploration here.

This area may be approached via a route on the Lower East Face, Lamb's Slide, or Flying Dutchman. Expect nearly a full-day for an adventure here.


Getting There 

Most access this area from the Long's Area trailhead to Chasm Lake 4.5 miles, and then you choose your final bit of approach.


Climbing Season


4 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper East Face:
The Notch Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III   
Kiener's Route   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
The Beaver   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3000'   
Browse More Classics in Upper East Face

Featured Route For Upper East Face
The route as seen from Chasm Meadow.

The Beaver 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Upper East Face
This route climbs Long's via its obvious, left skyline. Starting at the Loft, it strives to stay right on the crest of the southeast ridge.Much of this is simply 3rd class with HUGE exposure to your right, looking down the east face, and across the Diamond's profile.Soak it in, and stay as close to edge as you dare, peering down at the vertigous East Face!The crux comes when you reach the Notch. The Notch is very intimidating to look into, it's a ways down! Some rappel 100' from slings on the ri...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Upper East Face
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Photos of Upper East Face Slideshow Add Photo
The Upper East Face from near Mill's Glacier.
The Upper East Face from near Mill's Glacier.
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