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Upper East Face

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DH1? 
Enlightenment, The 
Long Live Rock 
Mile High Comic Crack 
Nighthawk  
Saturday Treat 
Schizofrantic 
Ticket, The 
Young and the Rackless, The 

Upper East Face 


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Location: 40.00244, -105.38754 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,607
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 30, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Blob Rock Area.

Original photo by Jack Wyatt.
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  • Description 

    Upper East Face is the steep wall on the right side of East Blob Rock.

    It has some great, harder routes like Schizofrantic (11b), The Ticket (12a), and The Enlightenment (13b). It also has the most popular multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon, The Young and the Rackless (9).

    Routes from left to right:

    above A. Unknown, 12+?, bolts.
    A. The Young and the Rackless, 9, 2-4p, 300', bolts.
    B. DH1?, 9+, 4p, 300', bolts & gear.
    C. Nighthawk, 10-, gear.
    D. Mile High Comic Crack, 12-, gear.
    E. Shock Therapy?, 12-
    F. The Enlightenment, 13, bolts.
    G. Schizofrantic, 11b, bolts + gear.
    H. Saturday Treat, 8+, 1p, 90', gear.
    I. Vicious Rumors?, 11.
    J. The Ticket, 12-, bolts.
    K. Long Live Rock, 11-, 100', gear.


    Getting There 

    Take the trail to Blob Rock. Head right and down below Blob Slab, then cut up the gully on the right side of East Blob. The Young and the Rackless starts by a dead tree; the other routes lie up the gully from there.


    9 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper East Face:
    The Young and the Rackless   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
    Nighthawk    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Long Live Rock   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Schizofrantic   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    The Ticket   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Mile High Comic Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Browse More Classics in Upper East Face

    Featured Route For Upper East Face
    There were only 2 bolts on the upper wall on the FA. We added the 3rd after the fact because the last nut was behind a loose flake. <br />Now there's 6? wow....

    The Ticket 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Upper East Face
    This is an excellent route with great climbing on good rock. It is slightly overhanging with two distinct crux headwalls separate by a good ledge/ramp. The variety of finger locks, jugs, crimps and slopers require good footwork, body position, and endurance.The Ticket is located in Boulder Canyon, at the Upper East Face of Blob Rock, up the grassy gully between East Blob and Bitty Buttress. (Not the gully next to Blob Rock with Jolt Cola, Vasodilator, ?Conan?...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of Upper East Face Slideshow Add Photo
    East Blob from below.
    BETA PHOTO: East Blob from below.
    Comments on Upper East Face Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Kevin Pula
    Nov 17, 2013

    What is the bolted line above the second pitch on The Young and the Rackless? It is a long pitch, 12+ bolts, that goes left from just above the 2nd anchors. Starts about 40 feet left, not really walkable from the 2nd anchors, have to rap in from the 3rd anchors. Heads up some bulges then straight up the steep headwall that is perfectly flat about 20 yards west (uphill) of TYATR. Seemed like 12+ to me, couldn't find it on MP at all. Didn't get to the top, two bolts short but seemed like the nothing was above it, definitely nothing was bolted below it; we had to rap to a ledge and walk climber's left to the first anchors of TYATR. Anyone know?