Upper East Face Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Blob Rock Area. Original photo by Jack Wyatt.
Upper East Face is the steep wall on the right side of East Blob Rock.
It has some great, harder routes like Schizofrantic (11b), The Ticket (12a), and The Enlightenment (13b). It also has the most popular multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon, The Young and the Rackless (9).
Routes from left to right:
above A. Unknown, 12+?, bolts.
A. The Young and the Rackless
, 9, 2-4p, 300', bolts.
, 9+, 4p, 300', bolts & gear.
C. Blind Trust
, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
D. Grey Elk's Big Rack
, 11- PG-13, 3p, gear & bolts.
, 10-, gear.
F. Mile High Comic Crack
, 12-, gear.
G. Shock Therapy?, 12-
H. The Enlightenment
, 13, bolts.
, 11b, bolts + gear.
J. Saturday Treat
, 8+, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Vicious Rumors
, 11, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
L. The Ticket
, 12-, bolts.
M. Long Live Rock
, 11-, 100', gear.
Take the trail to Blob Rock. Head right and down below Blob Slab, then cut up the gully on the right side of East Blob. The Young and the Rackless
starts by a dead tree; the other routes lie up the gully from there.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Upper East Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper East Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper East Face:
Nighthawk 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Schizofrantic 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
The Ticket 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Upper East Face
The Ticket 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CO
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : Upper East Face
This is an excellent route with great climbing on good rock. It is slightly overhanging with two distinct crux headwalls separate by a good ledge/ramp. The variety of finger locks, jugs, crimps and slopers require good footwork, body position, and endurance.The Ticket is located in Boulder Canyon, at the Upper East Face of Blob Rock, up the grassy gully between East Blob and Bitty Buttress. (Not the gully next to Blob Rock with Jolt Cola, Vasodilator, ?Conan?...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: East Blob from below.
By Kevin Pula
Nov 17, 2013
What is the bolted line above the second pitch on The Young and the Rackless? It is a long pitch, 12+ bolts, that goes left from just above the 2nd anchors. Starts about 40 feet left, not really walkable from the 2nd anchors, have to rap in from the 3rd anchors. Heads up some bulges then straight up the steep headwall that is perfectly flat about 20 yards west (uphill) of TYATR. Seemed like 12+ to me, couldn't find it on MP at all. Didn't get to the top, two bolts short but seemed like the nothing was above it, definitely nothing was bolted below it; we had to rap to a ledge and walk climber's left to the first anchors of TYATR. Anyone know?