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Upper Dream Canyon

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Bat Cove 
Candle Stick Crag 
Chamber, The 
Classic Cliff 
Dream Dome 
Greenhouse, The 
Icon, The 
Jessica's Block 
Lost Angel 
Midnight Rock 
Oceanic Wall 
Spider's Den, The 
Steeple, The 
Terrace, The 
Thunder Point 
Touch of Grey Slabs 
Turtle Dome 
Universal Crag 
Vanishing Point 
Water Slabs 

Upper Dream Canyon 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 40.0102, -105.4066 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 401,126
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

Modified from origin...

Description 

Upper Dream Canyon is one of the more secluded yet nearby climbing areas around. Climbing in Upper Dream Canyon is as much about the routes themselves as it is the gentle canyon that surrounds you. The area has a reputation for being a homosexual and nudist hotspot, however, this is exaggerated. Nevertheless, find another climbing area if this offends you. Upper Dream Canyon offers a nice variety of traditional and sport climbs, often enabling a climbing party to climb out of the canyon--a must during a late summer sunset. Because this area is pristine, be sure to pick up your trash, stay on trails, and respect the residents that live above the canyon.

This area include ~13 crags, although Lost Angel & Dream Dome have the bulk of the climbs here. Much of the climbing here is bolt protected; however, there are some gear routes here.


Getting There 

Although Upper Dream Canyon can be reached by hiking up from the base of Boulder Falls, most opt for turning right off Boulder Canyon at ~4 miles on Sugarloaf Road. After 3 miles, take a left on Lost Angel Road, continue straight at 1 mile, head left shortly after (at the sign posted on a tree stump that says North Gulch) and you will reach a dirt parking lot within another half mile. Several trails lead to the base of Upper Dream Canyon. To reach the Oceanic Wall and Dream Dome, walk down the road a short way past the parking lot and veer left on a trail that takes you to the north end of the canyon. The more southern portions of the canyon can be reached via a series of trails that skirt the top of the canyon heading west, then shoot down between rock outcroppings.

Addendum: This area can be challenging to locate without someone to introduce you to the area.


164 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',68],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',14],['5.9',19],['5.10',34],['5.11',54],['5.12',27],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Dream Canyon:
Wrinkles in Time   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches   Dream Dome
Time Traveler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Lost Angel
In Your Dreams   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Oceanic Wall
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport   Lost Angel
Midnight Express   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Midnight Rock
Autumn   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   Lost Angel
Strange Cargo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   Lost Angel
Tales of Power   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Dream Dome
Divination   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   Lost Angel
Hunky Monkey   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   Lost Angel
Stained Glass   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Dream Dome
The Deep   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Oceanic Wall
Naked Lunch   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 5 pitches, 360'   Lost Angel
Sargasso Sea   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Oceanic Wall
Voila   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Midnight Rock
Earth Voyage   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 4 pitches   Lost Angel
Archangel   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   Lost Angel
Red Limit   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0     Sport, Aid, 1 pitch, 70'   Dream Dome
Challenges of Leisure   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Oceanic Wall
China Doll (P1-2, free)   5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   Lost Angel
Browse More Classics in Upper Dream Canyon

Featured Route For Upper Dream Canyon
Jen Ernst following the beautiful crack of Time Traveler.

Time Traveler 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CO : Boulder : ... : Lost Angel
This one is the [third] farthest left route on Zen Garden Wall, the far left and upper part of Lost Angel. Scramble down gully to large tree with 2 bolt anchor opposite the tree. Cruise up the perfect hand/finger crack as it gets smaller and turns to seam above...then to blank face with 2 bolts until you reach anchor (~60 feet). You can TR 5 other cracks to the right of this one from the anchor...fun area to practice jamming and slabs.......[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Upper Dream Canyon
Local Shops
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Gear that has the best chance of improving your outdoor experience.
Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

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Photos of Upper Dream Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Sign at the start of the northern trail to Oceanic Wall and Dream Dome.
BETA PHOTO: Sign at the start of the northern trail to Oceanic...
China Cat Dihedral, China Doll, Dream Canyon.
China Cat Dihedral, China Doll, Dream Canyon.
Lost Angel from the west wall of Upper Dream Canyon.
Lost Angel from the west wall of Upper Dream Canyo...
Upper Dream Canyon from the west. Photo: Bob Horan.
Upper Dream Canyon from the west. Photo: Bob Horan...
BETA PHOTO
She just needs an oil change and she'll be good as new!
She just needs an oil change and she'll be good as...
Nick crossing the creek on 4:20/07
Nick crossing the creek on 4:20/07
Upper Dream granite, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Upper Dream granite, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
parking lot on lost angel road
parking lot on lost angel road
BH on FA of Natural Mystic V5, Inaugral Boulders, Dream Canyon.
BH on FA of Natural Mystic V5, Inaugral Boulders, ...
Jet stream chasing the sun over the western edge of DC
Jet stream chasing the sun over the western edge o...
Splash Down Traverse in Spring.
Splash Down Traverse in Spring.
Oceanic Wall.
Oceanic Wall.
Dream.
Dream.
Comments on Upper Dream Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 4, 2013
By matthew sawyer
Jun 12, 2003

I would affirm Dream Canyon's reputation as a nudist/homosexual spot, having three such experiences in my first five visits. Not unpleasant people, though not afraid. Once, mountain biking all the way east along Ridge Road in Nederland and passing the "summer road" and passing out of the residential area, I followed my nose along dirt roads until I was getting near Boulder Falls. Finding an interesting looking trail north, I jumped on it it and headed steeply down the hill. The trail petered out to deer track, and I was coming hard down the fall line with my bike on my shoulder. As I neared the creek, I began to hear chanting. At the very bottom of the canyon on the south side was a small meadow, on which were a few tents. A small bridge crossed the creek here to the north, where there is a large flat space at the bottom west end of Dream Canyon. A large blue tarp was suspended as an open walled tent, and underneath it were 2 dozen 30-40 something outdoorsy kinda Boulder types, wearing North Face and fleece jackets. Three women appeared to be inspired by spirits and were fainting backwards in ecstasy into cohorts arms. Again, chanting. 8-10 more dome tents, coupla SUVs, and as I cross the bridge, a couple of fellas quickly cruise over (spiritual, long hair, not menancing, but very concerned about my presence) and escort me towards the road, asking wassup? Motioned towards the other side of the canyon and the epic I would have had had I not found the bridge, and they just asked that I not return. One of the cars in the normal Dream Canyon parking lot had a bumpersticker; "Life's a joy, then you ascend...". Dream Canyon is its own vortex...

By Adrian Hill
Jun 16, 2003

Anyone know the name of the rock, and the single route, about 100 yardsdownstream from The Terrace? There is a single bolted line (6 bolts) onan overhanging face, leading to a two bolt rap anchor. The rock isslightly upstream from the plank across the river at the Lost Angel.Grade for the route?

Thanks for any information.

By pete cogan
Jun 26, 2003

Dream question: Above the anchors on Freedom [Lost Angel Wall] are two bolted routes which don't seem to be in Rossiter's guide or in this database . . . Anyone know what they are? Thanks.

By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
Sep 3, 2003

What is the route across the creek from [Lost Angel]? slightly overhanging, good holds, the only route on the rock. It's between the [Plank Bridge] and [The Terrace] and a really great line. Name? Grade?

By Brian Sorden
Sep 22, 2003

The rock across the creek from Lost Angel, downstream from the Terrace is called "Irish Holiday" and the bolted route is called "Spiders and Snakes" (5.12b). This route was cleaned, bolted and had its first free ascent by Bob Horan in the Autumn of 1998, assisted and belayed by myself and Mark Winstead. There is a short crack to the right of this route which finishes with the last three bolts on the rock, done free by me, then Mark, and named "Jack Hunter" (5.8). This is mentioned for posterity, not as a recommendation.

When you read the initial Dream Canyon description substitute "gay men" for "homosexual" and "exhibitionist" for "nudist." Having lived in the closest house to the canyon and Boulder Falls for over three years, I saw a lot of things, but I never saw a lesbian. Don't mistake my comments for scrutiny. People should be free to do what makes them happy in nature (be it hike, or climb, or have sex with strangers) as long as nature is preserved.

Also on the initial description: There are many ways to hike into LOWER Dream Canyon from the Boulder Falls area, but climbing above the falls (as many a flatlander has done) can earn you a trespassing ticket from rangers (trust me). From the parking area, cross the road down canyon from the "hole in the rock" and find the steep and narrow telephone service trail, try to avoid touron attention and be mindful of loose rock above the road. Only use this trail to access lower Dream Canyon during high water, otherwise hike down from the upper canyon. Be careful on all scree slopes and stay out of the mines, several have been filled in by the forest service during the last fifteen years but not all. They are unstable and perilous. Be discrete and respectful above the rim (i.e. top of Winter Warmth), it is private property.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Sep 26, 2003

Another way to get to Dream is by soloing the 4/5th class rock to the east of the falls. Just cross the creek and hike uphill a tad. I'm not sure if this is trespassing as well, but I can't imagine it is... Signs were on the West side of the creek, so... Lots of fun to do in wintry conditions/snow! Also, anyone know the name/grade of the 2 bolt route JUST right of the Falls? It runs up a blank wall with a roof, if I recall. Looks a little...um...run-out?

By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 2, 2006

The parking lot off Lost Angel Road has been full on our recent visits. As we were leaving this afternoon (07/02/06) cars were idling waiting for spots; the pullouts off the road were also taken. Perhaps not surprising as this is a great area to climb.

By charlybldr
May 12, 2007

Brian said,

"Also on the initial description: There are many ways to hike into LOWER Dream Canyon from the Boulder Falls area, but climbing above the falls (as many a flatlander has done) can earn you a trespassing ticket from rangers (trust me)."

I know many climbers have been ignoring the sign for years. Has anybody else gotten a ticket for hiking up from Boulder Falls?

By Chad
Nov 20, 2007

My guidebook was grabbed at base of the Lost Angel wall. If you have it, please let me know. caabiz@gmail.com

By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2008

Thanks to whoever took the time this week to cut down a few of the branches on the trail leading down to the Oceanic Wall and clean it up. That section was a real pain to get around.

By Kaner
From: Eagle
Sep 23, 2008

I agree with other that this IS indeed a popular homosexual and nudist hangout from a few experiences (no I'm not gay, no I don't have a problem with old men tanning naked-just awkward, yes I do have problem seeing man-on-man sex acts in a beautiful sunny canyon on a weekend)

Also, coed nudists hang here. This I have no problem with.
mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/upper_dream_canyon/10>>>

By LKT
Jul 18, 2010

I have a question about Dream Canyon, so forgive me if my post is irrelevant. In 1977, I was taken up there and hiked along the creek. My guide then left me alone to camp out there by myself and said if I followed the trail I'd end up at the hwy (119). He didn't tell me there was a waterfall (not Boulder Falls but before). I ended up going down that fall and I want to know how tall it is? Anyone know what I'm talking about? It was a long time ago. Thanks!

By Jeremy W
From: Clinton, NY
Aug 25, 2011

8/25/2011
Attn: There is a stuck Orange Petzl rope on the lefthand-ish side of Dream Dome, the rope extends down to the water. This is my rope, I got it stuck in a thin crack pulling it down from rappel anchors at the top. I'll grab it Saturday, but if anyone sees it, please leave it alone, or just hide it somewhere at the bottom if you're going to climb the route. Thanks, Jeremy

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Oct 16, 2011

Well.... Bob D's book is fairly vague on how to get into the canyon, and there is no signage. But the best way to figure a place out is to get lost, if you have the time.... We did.

Also saw a gay, assumption, naked man walking down the trail. If I were him, I'd stick to hiking in the nude in warmer weather....

Prod.

By KairnKB
Sep 29, 2012

Found a pair of purple Evolv shoes size 6.5 up near Gully Washer ... anyone looking for these?

By Will Mitchell
Jun 4, 2013

Hello all!!

I was climbing at Upper Dream Canyon on Sunday May 26th and I left my camera at the rocks somewhere. It is an Olympus Tough Tg-1 with silver and black body and has a red wrist strap on it. This camera has been around the world with me and is very special to me. If anyone has located it or has any information, I WILL GIVE A REWARD. PLEASE!!

Anyone with any information, please contact me!! williamcmitchell3@gmail.com.

Thank you, good people!!!

Olympus TG-1.
Olympus TG-1.