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Upper Dodge City

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African Queen T 
Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance) T 
Feeling Mary T 
Hoosegow, The T 
Lynch Mob S 
Spaghetti Western S 
String 'em Up S 

Upper Dodge City 


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: David Evans on Feb 13, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The right end of the Upper Dodge City formation.

Description 

Upper Dodge City sits high on the ridge above The Corral Wall. The main cliff is NNW facing and for the most part in the shade all day. The right side of the wall gets oblique sun in the late afternoon. The established routes are on the left side and include "String 'em Up" 5.11 b/c** (5 bolts right of an arete), "Lynch Mob" 5.11a* (4 bolts up a smooth face) and "Spaghetti Western" 5.11d*** (8 bolts up red wall). SEU and LM are on good gray varnish and SW is on dazzeling orange/red varnish. The middle to right side of the wall have many good looking crack systems.The middle of the wall has an unreported route which is a shallow flared crack up to a blank dihedral with bolts. The right side has "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance" 5.9 **, a two pitch route finishing in a nice left arching crack on brown varnish. Across the corridor is an awesome steep brown and black varnished wall with a couple unfinished (?) bolted routes.


Getting There 

Follow Rattlesnake Cyn. to the Corral Wall turnoff and head right to Corral Wall. Upper Dodge City can be seen high in the notch to the WSW. It is the best thing visible up there. Head up slabs and ramps. There is no best way and it is boulder hopping the whole way.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Upper Dodge City
Almost to the ledge at the half way point.

Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Upper Dodge City
This route starts in right slanting discontinuous cracks on the right side of the wall. Follow obvious cracks up and right past a pillar and a flake which lead to a small triangular ledge. Belay here at the base of the beautiful brown left facing arch. Go up, turn the corner, continue up 30' or so and step out right and finish passing two arches....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Upper Dodge City Slideshow Add Photo
Middle part of wall
BETA PHOTO: Middle part of wall
Left end of wall, the bolted routes are just around the corner to left.
BETA PHOTO: Left end of wall, the bolted routes are just aroun...
Topo of Archer/Tarver routes across from Spaghetti Western.
Topo of Archer/Tarver routes across from Spaghetti...
Upper Dodge City right side
BETA PHOTO: Upper Dodge City right side
"Route A" 5.7
"Route A" 5.7
FA of "Route A" on the topo. 5.7 2 bolts, 2 TCU's. FA - Archer, Bob Tarver 2/91
FA of "Route A" on the topo. 5.7 2 bolts, 2 TCU's....
Upper Dodge City, I think. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Upper Dodge City, I think.
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on Upper Dodge City Add Comment
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By Vernon Stiefel
Feb 13, 2004

Alan Bartlett's Y2K reprint edition of Rock Climbs Of Indian Cove lists three additional routes for Upper Dodge City. One of the routes, "The Hoosegow" (10c), to the right of Spaghetti Western was established by Kris Solem. It is a crack climb with a bolt(s).

By Geoff Archer
Dec 16, 2007

The reference to the steep, dark wall across the corridor may be related to several routes I established with Bob Tarver in January 1991. The following description is taken directly from my "Rock Notes" that contains all my handwritten FA information. "This route is located on the long, low-angle slab 200 yards north of Spaghetti Western" There are a total of 5 routes on this crag, with the highest route being a bolted face route on steep, dark rock (5.10b, 4 bolts, TCU's). This route is visible from Spaghetti Western. None of these routes were ever named. I have also added a scan of a hand-drawn topo and photos of the first (lowest) route on the crag. ANybody ever get on these things?