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Upper Devils Canyon
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Lost Wall 
Pancake House 
Throne/Universe Wall, The 

Upper Devils Canyon 


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Elevation: 3,500'
Page Views: 15,984. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 4, 2006

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Looking down on the right side climbs of the thron...

Description 

Upper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming.

The route tend to be of a mixed nature, both edges and pockets. Maybe a little heavier on the pockets and lots of little pockets to work those fingers. There is a pretty good range of routes here as well, with lots of moderate routes being put up over the last few years.

This area mostly faces to the east, and it is entirely possible to climb after (approx.) mid-morning here during the cooler (less hot?) days of the summer months.


Getting There 

After turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Devils Canyon:
Cool Breeze   5.4     Sport, 40 feet   Pancake House
Squeeze Play   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Stoned   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Lost Wall
Projectiles   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Lost Wall
Mr. Solo   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Cracker Jack Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Dr. Giggles   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Too Stiff To Tip   5.7     Sport, 55 feet   Pancake House
Lumberjack   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
French Toast   5.9     Sport, 65 feet   Pancake House
Queen Creek Freak   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Lost Wall
Delivery Charge   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Ferocious Flo   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Moon Line   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Tendon Teaser   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Earth Angel   5.10+     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Screaming Deamons   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Deviled Hands   5.11b     Sport, 40 feet   Pancake House
Frequent Flyer   5.11b     Sport, 50 feet   The Throne/Universe Wall
Devils Advocate   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pancake House
Browse More Classics in Upper Devils Canyon

Featured Route For Upper Devils Canyon
Susan (left) climbing 'Queen Creek Freak' with Karen (right) on 'Projectiles'.

Queen Creek Freak 5.9  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lost Wall
Fun crack that angles right, then back left over a flake, finally ending in a great roof. Although the roof looks tough from the ground, there are some great hands that make the rating accurate. The crack has seen a number of climbs so it's smoother than most in the Queen Creek area. This climb is well worth doing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ