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DescriptionUpper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming. Getting ThereAfter turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Devils Canyon:
Cool Breeze 5.4 Sport, 40 feet Pancake House
Squeeze Play 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Projectiles 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Lost Wall
Mr. Solo 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Cracker Jack Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Dr. Giggles 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Too Stiff To Tip 5.7 Sport, 55 feet Pancake House
Lumberjack 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
French Toast 5.9 Sport, 65 feet Pancake House
Queen Creek Freak 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Lost Wall
Delivery Charge 5.9 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Ferocious Flo 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Moon Line 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Tendon Teaser 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Earth Angel 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Screaming Deamons 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Deviled Hands 5.11b Sport, 40 feet Pancake House
Frequent Flyer 5.11b Sport, 50 feet The Throne/Universe Wall
Devils Advocate 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Pancake House
Featured Route For Upper Devils Canyon
Queen Creek Freak 5.9 AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lost Wall
Fun crack that angles right, then back left over a flake, finally ending in a great roof. Although the roof looks tough from the ground, there are some great hands that make the rating accurate. The crack has seen a number of climbs so it's smoother than most in the Queen Creek area. This climb is well worth doing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ |