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Upper Devils Canyon

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Lost Wall 
Pancake House 
Throne/Universe Wall, The 

Upper Devils Canyon 


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Elevation: 3,500'
Page Views: 20,095
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 4, 2006
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Description 

Upper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming.

The route tend to be of a mixed nature, both edges and pockets. Maybe a little heavier on the pockets and lots of little pockets to work those fingers. There is a pretty good range of routes here as well, with lots of moderate routes being put up over the last few years.

This area mostly faces to the east, and it is entirely possible to climb after (approx.) mid-morning here during the cooler (less hot?) days of the summer months.


Getting There 

After turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area.


41 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',12],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Devils Canyon:
Cool Breeze   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Sport, 40'   Pancake House
Dr. Giggles   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Projectiles   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Lost Wall
Cracker Jack Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Hidden Treasure   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   The Throne/Universe Wall
Lumberjack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Too Stiff To Tip   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 55'   Pancake House
French Toast   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 65'   Pancake House
Queen Creek Freak   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lost Wall
Ferocious Flo   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Sunny-Side Up   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Pancake House
Tendon Teaser   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Earth Angel   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Deviled Hands   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 40'   Pancake House
Frequent Flyer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Browse More Classics in Upper Devils Canyon

Featured Route For Upper Devils Canyon
Susan (left) climbing 'Queen Creek Freak' with Karen (right) on 'Projectiles'.

Queen Creek Freak 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lost Wall
Fun crack that angles right, then back left over a flake, finally ending in a great roof. Although the roof looks tough from the ground, there are some great hands that make the rating accurate. The crack has seen a number of climbs so it's smoother than most in the Queen Creek area. This climb is well worth doing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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