Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Africa Flake T 
Boogaloo Direct T 
Cheap Thrills T 
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 
Drain Pipe S 
Edger Sanction T 
English Hanging Gardens T 
Frontal Lobotomy S 
Giant Step S 
Hard Trough, The T 
Headwall T 
Kwanku Dai T 
Left Flake T 
Let It Bleed S 
Mad Dogs T 
Mind Bender T 
Northwest Passage T 
Pudnurtle T 
Puppy Chow T 
Puppy Dog T,S 
Raging Slab S 
Rat Crack T 
Rat Crack Variation T 
Raw Deal T 
Right Flake T 
Roof, The T 
Slabbergasted TR 
Slabtacular TR 
Toprope Problem T 
Trough, The T 
Upper Crack T 
Variation to Boogaloo T 
Virgin, The T 
Wedunett T 

Upper Crack 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Tristan B on Sep 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Upper Crack 5.4 with some varations as dashed line...

Description 

This is the small short crack to the left of the 2 other cracks/flakes on the top half of the slab. Itís a finger/hand crack that is real easy to protect. Lead Boogaloo 5.8 or The Roof 5.9 to get up to the anchors, or another route like The Trough 5.5 to the top and then rap down and left to the anchors. From the anchors traverse left past Left Flake and then up the short crack. The crack dies out after about 20 feet and is filled with grass, from here you can follow the grassy crack up and run it out or traverse left 5 feet and take another flake up for 10 feet (protectable). From there head up and right to the anchors above Left Flake/Right Flake/Let it Bleed. Since this route starts traversing left and ends back right bring slings to reduce rope drag. To get down just rap back to the anchors and then rap down again to the ground. This crack is fun but itís really short, itíd be a good warm up if you were a 5.7 trad leader and wanted to get a lap in before trying the other cracks. Also you could use this to set up a TR for the other cracks. To me the crux was traversing left once you past Left Flake, you can put a cam in to protect a swing here. Itís a real easy fun move because you get some instant exposure. Then there is another crux maybe 5 feet up the crack and then itís easy to the top.


Location 

To the left of the 2 Flakes/Cracks on the upper half of the main slab.


Protection 

Light rack, bolted anchors at the top.



Comments on Upper Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -