Upper Ledges Rock Climbing
The Upper Ledges are likely the second tallest slab in CT next to West Rock State Park
in New Haven. The Upper Ledge is basically broken down into two different sections, the Super Slab and the Trail Magic section. Super Slab contains routes from Class 4 Scramble
to Arch of Delight (aka The Corner)
and many many other variations. You can basically climb all over this slab without much regards for defined routes. To the left of Super Slab is the Trail Magic slab which contains the routes from Athlete's Feat
to Quartz Wall
. The longest routes are on the Super Slab while the more leadable routes are on the Trail Magic slab.
The Upper Ledges are often used by large groups of toproping beginners, but there are plenty of slab routes to go around.
Appearances are deceiving, this large slab is well over 100 feet tall in places (especially on the right side). A 60m rope will not always reach the bottom. There are two common ways to access the top or walk off:
1) Via a large gully to climber's right of the main slab. It looks easy and safe but, be warned, it can be treacherous especially when damp and full of leaves (all the time). It's safer if you stick to climbers-right of the big boulder at the bottom. As you near the top, exit the gully to the left onto a climbers path along the top of the slab.
2) Via Class 4 Scramble
From the Appalachian Trail junction at River Rd., hike uphill on the white-blazed A.T. about 10 minutes. The trail will pass right along the base of the Upper Ledges.
Climbing Season For the Western Highlands area.
Weather station 6.9 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Ledges
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Ledges
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Ledges:
Trail Magic 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Upper Ledges
Crack-and-Up 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CT
: Western Highlands
: ... : Upper Ledges
Start at the left-facing inside corner 15 ft left of Trail Magic (See Photo). Climb the face just to the left of the corner, the corner and the cracks above (5.7). When the crack ends [ALT] continue straight up on thin friction and crimpers (5.9 +/-?) until one reaches easier climbing, then move to the tree anchor at the top of Trail Magic. ALTernate: Traverse left to "No Gear". Finish on that route, or move up it 25-30 ft, then move up rightwards following a weakness (with some gear) to the t...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
Oct 14, 2012
There is a large ascent/descent gully to climber's right of the slabs. It looks easy and safe but, be warned, it can be treacherous especially when damp and full of leaves (all the time). As you near the top, exit the gully to the left onto a climbers path along the top of the slab. If you bring 75-150ft of static rope/webbing, you can to use trees for TR anchors on Super Slab and have your 60m rope reach the ground.
By Morgan Patterson
Oct 18, 2013
100ft of webbing affecting trees or a few new anchors in rock?
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Nov 7, 2013
I think the issue is that a 60 meter rope does not make it to the ground on at least one part of the slab. (With sling shot set up). so you need to extend anchor point down from the top a ways. There are trees readily available at the top. The trees appear to be unharmed.