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Upper Bulge Routes

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crucifix, The T 
Field of Dreams T 
Flakes, The T 
Pharaoh, The T 
Price of Fear, The T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Step, The T 
Super Pooper T 
Vampire, The T 

Upper Bulge Routes 


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Location: 33.76015, -116.6846 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 77,090
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2008
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Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch ...

Description 

The Upper Bulge of Tahquitz, a large tooth-shaped section of rock starting midway up the rock, appears from afar as smooth and mostly featureless, and while not entirely true it's home to some of the more difficult, sustained and classic routes on Tahquitz. While routes on the Upper Bulge are shorter in nature, averaging 3 to 4 pitches in length, the exposed nature of the climbing gives an exposed feeling not found on many of the other routes at Tahquitz.

Stretching from the right edge of the Maiden Buttress to the Royal's Arches Area this section of Tahquitz is packed with quality routes including Super Pooper (5.10a), The Price of Fear (5.10c), The Vampire (5.11a), The Flakes (5.11c), and Stairway to Heaven (5.12a).


Getting There 

Routes on the Upper Bulge can be approached by any of several different methods:

  • For The Step, Le Toit, Le Toilette or Super Pooper start up The Trough and cut left via From Bad Traverse (5.6) to reach the left side of the Bulge and From Bad Traverse (FBT) Ledge.

  • For The Flakes, Stairway to Heaven, The Price of Fear and The Happy Hooker (or if avoiding the 1st pitch of the Vampire) start up The Trough and midway along the traverse head up a clean left-facing corner system (5.7) to reach Vampire Ledge which is located directly below the center of the Bulge.

  • For The Pharaoh, The Vampire, The Bat and any of the routes on the right side of the Bulge start up The Trough and then head straight up at the start of From Bad Traverse along the right side of a steep, smooth buttress with the curving crack of The Pharaoh a good landmark.

  • As an alternative climb one of the Lower Bulge Routes and modify the approach accordingly.

See the individual route descriptions for more detailed approach information.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Bulge Routes:
The Step   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 600'   
Super Pooper   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
The Price of Fear   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Vampire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
The Flakes   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
The Crucifix   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Field of Dreams   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Bulge Routes

Featured Route For Upper Bulge Routes
ANGELINA KALIANDA SENDS

The Vampire 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes
The ultimate SoCal classic which takes pride of place on Tahquitz Rock - winding its way up the center of the West Face Bulge.P1) The Bat Crack, 5.11a. From the ledge drop down and into the crack, initially a lieback then finesse requirements begin to kick-in culminating with a tough move past a bolt - don't relax though, an energetic mantle is required to gain the belay ledge up to the left and bolts. This pitch can also be climbed direct from lower down.P2) 5.11a. Thin and steep leftwards to t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Upper Bulge Routes Slideshow Add Photo
Reaching for the mantle holds on The Vampire.
Reaching for the mantle holds on The Vampire.
Before it was free climbed ~ Phil Gleason aiding 'Le Toit' on an early ascent ca 1966.
Before it was free climbed ~ Phil Gleason aiding '...
The Vampire from the start of The Trough. You can see shadows of flakes which make up The Vampire leading up from the Bat Crack.
BETA PHOTO: The Vampire from the start of The Trough. You can ...
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