South-facing limestone with two bolted routes, featuring edges and pockets.
Get to the base of Bug Barn Dance Wall: Walk up the canyon to the (sometimes-functional) water fountain at the right side of the trail. Look east and a little left of the trail. You'll see the Bug Barn Dance Wall.
After getting to the base of BBDW, traverse west along the top of the talus. Cross a tiny ridge, along the wall some more, then cross another bump. Another few steps and you're at the base.
The right route on the wall. The start is fun limestone pockets, changing to good, positive holds. The crux comes after crossing the crack (after clipping the 5th bolt, see photo).The rock on Spank the Monkey seemed quite a bit better than the route next to it (Vengeance is Mine). The pocket area near the bottom is quite solid, and most of the holds on the left side of the crack seem good. There was, however, one fairly large semi-detached flake that looks like it would be a great ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
In the mid 90's a friend and I went up there to do those routes. As he was leading (something easy) he pulled a 5-gallon bucket sized rock off and fell at the same time. I took 2 steps backward but the rope was pulling me back into the wall into the rockfall. I watched that rock and the other debris land right where I was just standing. Somehow we both managed to safely avoid anything.