Upper Broadway Rock Climbing
The final scramble to gain Upper Broadway
Upper Broadway is located on a sunny series of ledges below the east face. In general the rock is less featured than the West Face. Most of the routes are 5.7 or harder. Classic routes include Conns East (5.6), Soler (5.7), ALCOA Presents (5.8), Frosted Flake (5.9), Castor (5.10a), Pollux(5.10a), and Spock's Brain (5.11b?)
Upper Broadway can be reached from the east face trail or by scrambling from lower Broadway
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
33 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Broadway
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Broadway
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Broadway:
Soler 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Pollux 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 45'
Castor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Orangeaid 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Low Octane 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Upper Broadway
Castor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WV
: Seneca Rocks
: ... : Upper Broadway
According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents)....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
Another busy day on Broadway.
By Benjamin Larson
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
May 17, 2016
Hiking to Upper Broadway ledge involves hiking up the road, follow the blue-blazed trail up to the left after you pass the Southern Pillar. You will hike up a long gully past some cool rock formations, it is a long and steep hike. It almost seems like you are going past the South Peak but then you make an obvious left on the trail (it is marked) and it heads over to the wall. You will have to scramble up some rocks to get to the ledge, downclimbing this is a bit sketchy, some people even rappel the downclimb. I'd guess the hike from the parking lot is 45 minutes or so. The trail is great and pretty well marked.