Upper Broadway is located on a sunny series of ledges below the east face. In general the rock is less featured than the West Face. Most of the routes are 5.7 or harder. Classic routes include Conns East (5.6), Soler (5.7), ALCOA Presents (5.8), Frosted Flake (5.9), Castor (5.10a), Pollux(5.10a), and Spock's Brain (5.11b?)
Upper Broadway can be reached from the east face trail or by scrambling from lower Broadway
24 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Broadway:
Windy Corner 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Conn's East 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Dirty Old Man 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Conn's East Lieback Variation 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Soler 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Conn's East Direct 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Alcoa Presents 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 50'
Frosted Flake 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 100'
High Test 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 120'
Castor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Pollux 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 45'
Orangeaid 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Hidden Assets 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Nip and Tuck 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Spock's Brain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Low Octane 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Terra Firma Homesick Blues 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
The Changling 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Upper Broadway
Spock's Brain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Upper Broadway
Start by climbing a shallow right facing corner to it's end. At this point, follow the thin crack systems heading slightly to the right and then back left. You will hit a point where you are about 10 Ft under an obvious jug. At this point you will be forced to leave your gear and gun it to the good hold(crux). After this, head to the shuts. This route has surprisingly good gear, as long as your cool with micronuts and very small cams. This is a good choice for breaking into the 5.11 grade...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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