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Upper Broadway

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcoa Presents T 
Amazing Grace T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dinah Moe-Hum T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Expletive Deleted T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Hopeful Illusions T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pickleright T 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 
Spock's Brain T 
Talbert Picklefish T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Upper Broadway Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.8344, -79.36659 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,297
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
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Description 

Upper Broadway is located on a sunny series of ledges below the east face. In general the rock is less featured than the West Face. Most of the routes are 5.7 or harder. Classic routes include Conns East (5.6), Soler (5.7), ALCOA Presents (5.8), Frosted Flake (5.9), Castor (5.10a), Pollux(5.10a), and Spock's Brain (5.11b?)

Getting There 

Upper Broadway can be reached from the east face trail or by scrambling from lower Broadway

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',6],['5.10',8],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Broadway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Broadway:
Windy Corner   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dirty Old Man   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 155'   
Conn's East   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Conn's East Lieback Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Soler   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Alcoa Presents   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   
Conn's East Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Frosted Flake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   
High Test   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 120'   
Castor   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pollux   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 45'   
Hidden Assets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Orangeaid   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Nip and Tuck   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
Spock's Brain   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Low Octane   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Terra Firma Homesick Blues   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Changling   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Broadway

Featured Route For Upper Broadway
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope follows the line of the climb.

Spock's Brain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Upper Broadway
Start by climbing a shallow right facing corner to it's end. At this point, follow the thin crack systems heading slightly to the right and then back left. You will hit a point where you are about 10 Ft under an obvious jug. At this point you will be forced to leave your gear and gun it to the good hold(crux). After this, head to the shuts. This route has surprisingly good gear, as long as your cool with micronuts and very small cams. This is a good choice for breaking into the 5.11 grade...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Upper Broadway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The final scramble to gain Upper Broadway
The final scramble to gain Upper Broadway

Comments on Upper Broadway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benjamin Larson
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
May 17, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Hiking to Upper Broadway ledge involves hiking up the road, follow the blue-blazed trail up to the left after you pass the Southern Pillar. You will hike up a long gully past some cool rock formations, it is a long and steep hike. It almost seems like you are going past the South Peak but then you make an obvious left on the trail (it is marked) and it heads over to the wall. You will have to scramble up some rocks to get to the ledge, downclimbing this is a bit sketchy, some people even rappel the downclimb. I'd guess the hike from the parking lot is 45 minutes or so. The trail is great and pretty well marked.

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