Upper Broadway Rock Climbing
Another busy day on Broadway.
Upper Broadway is located on a sunny series of ledges below the east face. In general the rock is less featured than the West Face. Most of the routes are 5.7 or harder. Classic routes include Conns East (5.6), Soler (5.7), ALCOA Presents (5.8), Frosted Flake (5.9), Castor (5.10a), Pollux(5.10a), and Spock's Brain (5.11b?)
Upper Broadway can be reached from the east face trail or by scrambling from lower Broadway
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
33 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Broadway
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Broadway
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Broadway:
Soler 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Castor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Pollux 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 45'
Orangeaid 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Low Octane 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Upper Broadway
Spock's Brain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WV
: Seneca Rocks
: ... : Upper Broadway
Start by climbing a shallow right facing corner to it's end. At this point, follow the thin crack systems heading slightly to the right and then back left. You will hit a point where you are about 10 Ft under an obvious jug. At this point you will be forced to leave your gear and gun it to the good hold(crux). After this, head to the shuts. This route has surprisingly good gear, as long as your cool with micronuts and very small cams. This is a good choice for breaking into the 5.11 grade...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
The final scramble to gain Upper Broadway
By Benjamin Larson
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
May 17, 2016
Hiking to Upper Broadway ledge involves hiking up the road, follow the blue-blazed trail up to the left after you pass the Southern Pillar. You will hike up a long gully past some cool rock formations, it is a long and steep hike. It almost seems like you are going past the South Peak but then you make an obvious left on the trail (it is marked) and it heads over to the wall. You will have to scramble up some rocks to get to the ledge, downclimbing this is a bit sketchy, some people even rappel the downclimb. I'd guess the hike from the parking lot is 45 minutes or so. The trail is great and pretty well marked.