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 ADVANCED
Upper Broadway

Select Route:
Alcoa Presents T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Spock's Brain T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 

Upper Broadway 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
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Description 

Upper Broadway is located on a sunny series of ledges below the east face. In general the rock is less featured than the West Face. Most of the routes are 5.7 or harder. Classic routes include Conns East (5.6), Soler (5.7), ALCOA Presents (5.8), Frosted Flake (5.9), Castor (5.10a), Pollux(5.10a), and Spock's Brain (5.11b?)


Getting There 

Upper Broadway can be reached from the east face trail or by scrambling from lower Broadway


Climbing Season


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Broadway:
Windy Corner   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Conn's East   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Dirty Old Man   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 155'   
Conn's East Lieback Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Soler   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Conn's East Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Alcoa Presents   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   
Frosted Flake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   
High Test   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 120'   
Castor   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pollux   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 45'   
Orangeaid   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hidden Assets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Nip and Tuck   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
Spock's Brain   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Low Octane   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Terra Firma Homesick Blues   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Changling   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Broadway

Featured Route For Upper Broadway
The rope follows the line of the climb.

Spock's Brain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Upper Broadway
Start by climbing a shallow right facing corner to it's end. At this point, follow the thin crack systems heading slightly to the right and then back left. You will hit a point where you are about 10 Ft under an obvious jug. At this point you will be forced to leave your gear and gun it to the good hold(crux). After this, head to the shuts. This route has surprisingly good gear, as long as your cool with micronuts and very small cams. This is a good choice for breaking into the 5.11 grade...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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