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Upper Blair

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Upper Blair 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 5, 2002
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Spectreman.

Description 

The Upper Blair area of Vedauwoo offers many nice lines on a small band of tightly knit rock formations. A lot of the routes here face north, offering shade all, or part of the day. The lines are easy to find, and most are quite descript. The area is easy to navigate thanks to excellent topos, pictures, and descriptions in the "Heel and Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo" guide. Another nice quality of this area is the lack of boulder fields at the base of the rocks, making canine access a breeze. Don't forget to check out Spectreman, the area classic.


Getting There 

From the I-80 exit drive west on the FR 705. This dirt road parallels the big skid on it's south side for 1.5 miles eventually going north underneath. Follow this road into the national forest and past the Lower Blair parking. The road curves and rises. Turn right onto FR 705A, and again onto FR705AF. Note the 8ball as you approach. Park at the end. Alternatively one can approach from the Lower Blair parking, or at a cattleguard uphill from Lower Blair with a trail on the south side of the barbed wire fence.


58 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',5],['5.10',11],['5.11',16],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Blair:
Becker   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   John's Tower
Big House   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   John's Tower
Baobab Tree   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Little John's Tower
Fun House   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   John's Tower
My Clone Sleeps Alone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Heap
Yellow Belly   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   John's Tower
SS Maywood   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   North Corner
Double Dippin'   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   John's Tower
Storm Watch   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Heap
Ultra Violets   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 60'   John's Tower
Burning Man   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   John's Tower
Finnigan's Ladder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Upper Blair Boulder Problem...
Jamminy Crackit   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   John's Tower
Behind Blue Eyes   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Upper Blair Boulder Problem...
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   John's Tower
Call Me Barney   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Heap
Spectreman   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Heap
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Heap
The Rookie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   The Heap
Browse More Classics in Upper Blair

Featured Route For Upper Blair
World's best finger lock.

Spectreman 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  WY : Vedauwoo : ... : The Heap
This route is the gem of the Upper Blair area and one of the best at Vedauwoo. Park at the end of FR 705AF. Spectreman Buttress is on the south east end of The Heap, which is the farthest north formation in Upper Blair. Follow faint trails from the parking area around either the north or south sides of the Heap to the far end. You can't miss the route. It is at the top of a huge slab with clear views in the opposite direction of the back side of Central Vedauwoo. The route is straightforwa...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Upper Blair Slideshow Add Photo
Looking towards the Heap/Upper Blair on a cloudy morning.
Looking towards the Heap/Upper Blair on a cloudy m...
Comments on Upper Blair Add Comment
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By Mark Morehouse
May 6, 2002

A note on your personal safety. Last time I was in the Blair area and pulled into the Upper parking are on FR 705AF I was welcomed by a small band of confederate army supporters. Luckly they were still passed out, but they made their presence noticable by the collection of empty bottles creativly placed everywhere, a wide selection of shotgun shells decorating the parking lot, and a conspicuous confederate flag hung between trees. We decided to park somewhere else and avoid and accidental shooting, travel at your own risk.

By Anonymous Coward
May 6, 2002

On hot days dogs seem to like the hang at the base of Spectreman, so if you are a climber that brings dogs to the crags, please be considerate and keep your dog away from there if climbers are attempting this route. Thanks.

By Jordan Wood
May 15, 2006

After about a half an hour of driving around aimlessly this weekend, I thought I'd submit "alternate" directions.

From the Vedauwoo road exit, turn left and you will come to a paved frontage road. Turn right, drive for about two miles and turn right on blair road. This is 705. Continue for several miles. You will see a sign saying that you are entering Medicine Bow. You are looking for the 707 right turn off. There is a patch of grass and trees in the middle of the intersection. The signs are set back from the road, so keep your eyes open. You will soon take another right on 707AF.

This road dead ends in a wooded camping area. There is another parking area about fifty yards before this one, but it tends to have a lot more traffic.

There is a trail that continues in roughly the same direction as the road after it ends, rather than going uphill immediately. Follow this trail until you see a barbed wire fence uphill to your right and a large, low angle slab. Crossing the fence and heading up the slab will lead you to the base of Spectraman.

If you instead, want to get to the area around Big House crack (the obvious splitter on the large formation), take the faint trail leading uphill from the campground. You should end up on top of a hill, with the eight ball rock on your right. Hiking down from here will take you to a more distinct path leading along the base of the cliff. Turn left and look for an easy scramble to get to the base of the routes.


By Chris Brus
From: Libby, MT
Aug 11, 2008

Does anyone know anything about a small formation to the southeast of The Heap containing a right arching hand crack which faces the northwest? This formation almost directly east from blue eyes and southeast from the heap. Does anyone know what this formation and route are? Also on a side note, there is currently a wasp nest inside the crack on Behind Blue Eyes. My partner was stung three times after sticking his fingers directly in the nest so watch out.