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Turret Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Car Stud S 
Escorndido S 
Fashionably Uninvited T 
Fishook T 
Guide's Route T 
Jaws T 
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 
Knup T 
Mexicanist, The S 
Schooldaze T 
Sloppy Shoes S 
Sunshine Slab T 
Upper Arch S 
Upper Lip T 
Velvet Habel T,S 
Welcoming, The S 
White Stress T,S 

Upper Arch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Larry M Shaw on Aug 12, 2006

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Description 

There are 3 bolted face routes under the upper arch. They have good face climbing on big holds. These are some of the best sport climbs on the dome.

Per S. Green, "the middle route is named Escorndido (5.9+). The left route is Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10a) and is a great 2-pitch line. The right route is Innerspace Arch (5.9+). The far left easy slab route is Most Toppest (5.5)."


Location 

Hike past Guide's Route to the obvious arch with 3 bolted lines and two anchors.


Protection 

6-7 bolts. 2 anchors for 3 routes.



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By Larry M Shaw
Aug 12, 2006

I climbed the left and center route yesterday. Both felt like they were in the .9 range. We didn't have time for the right route, but it looked a touch easier. I haven't climbed in a while, so the grades might be off a bit. Just left of the arch was a 5.1 bolted route for beginners, felt like Sunshine Slab. Once at either anchor, you can walk across a ledge and set up the other anchor.

By Stewart M. Green
Aug 15, 2006

The middle route is named Escorndido (5.9+). The left route is Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10a) and is a great 2-pitch line. The right route is Innerspace Arch (5.9+). The far left easy slab route is Most Toppest (5.5).

By Chip Loomis
Aug 15, 2011

These three routes are all just wonderful. I actually thought Junior Jules Doinks a Digit was the easiest of the three, regardless they are all in the 5.9+ range.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is some confusion between the guidebooks. As far as I can remember, the left-hand line of bolts on this wall is listed as Most Toppest in the Schmidt guide (I don't have it to hand), but his diagram shows it further left than the left-most line of bolts and he gives it 5.7. In Stewart Green's guide, this line is shown as P1 of Junior Jules Doinks a Digit, 5.10b.

5.9 or 5.9+ seems about right (though it comes as a bit of a shock when you're told it's a 5.7 "jugfest"!) as there are some very balancy moves (worth UK 5b) before and after bolt #3.

By Paul Vervalin
Jun 29, 2014

Climbed in the Upper Arch area yesterday. Great views for sure. The leftmost route "under the arch" is Most Toppest, because there is definitely NOT a 2nd pitch as Junior Jules Doinks a Digit has. As for the 5.7 rating, there are definitely major, positive holds on portions of this route, but the cruxes feel harder than 5.7. It is a very vertical route with several areas where a good amount of balancing is required. I would rate it at 5.8+, but I'm 6'1" :-) My 5'5" wife struggled on this route, so keep that in mind. Climb safely!