Up Valley Goes Downtown 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob and Carrie Robertson |
| Submitted By: | montay on Oct 13, 2001 |
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Bart Calkins jamming the great hand crack at the s...
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Description To locate this climb, head to the very south end of The Gym (where it meets the east corner of Spiney Ridge). Arrowhead Spire sits right here, and just to the north (right) of it is a tall, triangular wall with two bolted routes on tan, sandy-looking rock. The right hand route starts with a curving handcrack. This is UVGD.
The actual climbing on this route is pretty good and varied, which makes up for a bit of chossy rock and an "interesting" bolt placement or two. It starts with a fun, steep, little, hand crack that turns into fingers. Add some nice Shelf Road edges for footholds and crank on up. Towards the top, you will run into a nice ledge that presents an interesting and balancy challenge to stand on.
Protection 8 bolts and anchors.
Bart Calkins traversing right to the arete.
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| Comments on Up Valley Goes Downtown |
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.10d
| This route has quality climbing and isn't a bomb by any means. Varied moves with a hand crack at the start and face moves up an arete near the top. Some of the bolts are well left of the natural climbing line. |
By Ben Burnett
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d
| The rock on this one is better than it looks. The bolts allow for a safe lead on either crack, (the left seems a little harder but is a more direct line) or if you're tall enough you can span both cracks up to the first ledge.
The second bolt is high, but there are great holds for both hands and feet. |
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