Up, Up and Away 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Tami Knight, Peter Croft 1978 |
| Submitted By: | ScottH on Sep 9, 2006 |
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In the crux on Up, Up, and Away.
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description Begin up the wide and somewhat broken corner. Wander up increasingly steep terrain past a nice section of gentle finger crack to a decent stance. The fire up the final cruxy section of vertical finger crack. I found this to be suprisingly tough and slightly pumpy, and longer than it looked from the ground.
Location Up, Up and Away is left of Witch Doctor's Apprentice and Power Windows, just around the corner from Crime of the Century. The final finger crack is obvious from the trail.
Protection Standard rack to 2". The lower section of the climb eats nuts, saving finger-sized cams for the final section.
BETA PHOTO: Up, Up, and Away.
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The busted ankle referenced in Pete's story of Up,...
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| Comments on Up, Up and Away |
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By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Dec 18, 2008
| My first exposure to this climb was making the 911 call after someone nuked their ankle falling near the top. It's a fun climb, but place the gear in the upper crack. It's pumpy, but probably better not to run it out if you don't have strength to stick a cam in.
I wish I had had my camera handy once we had the guy on the ground an waiting for the rescue group with the litter. His shoes were "X-Rays" from Five Ten. Having a picture of the swollen, bent ankle, with the word "X-Ray" on the tongue of his shoe would have been priceless. |
By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
May 30, 2009
| The only part of this climb that is 5.9 is the last vertical section. It can be done by layback or jams. I used a couple of #1 for that section. |
By Anthony Milano
Jul 27, 2009
| I messed up my ankle last June.
Ended up hobbling down the trail to the car-People looked at me as if I were a ghost. Wish I could have gotten a picture of their faces.
The top crack section is a bit harder than it looks.
I put a piece about neck high. It was solid and held but enabled me to deck out. If I would have "Nut-Fished," and taken some time to really place a piece (higher) I probably would not have hit so hard.
Great Climb Though! |
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Feb 12, 2010
rating: 5.9
| 2 out of 3 comments mention injury from this route. It's worth mentioning that the upper section is not really that hard to protect, it accepts gear well it's just a bit pumpy is all. It's not 5.9 R, or even 5.9 PG-13. |
By Jon Stein
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 3, 2010
rating: 5.9
| From Penny Lane go left and up to this really appealing 5.9 crack. It just begs to be climbed. Bit of a tricky start makes way for easier climbing up until you get to the last short crack section just before the bolts. This was the only 5.9 section for me and certainly the crux. Very worthy of doing if you are in the area! |
By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 30, 2011
| The upper crack accepts both medium to large nuts and cams in the .4-.75 camalot range very well. |
By Anthony Milano
Jan 23, 2013
| Yes Mark its easy to protect... That second deck/flat area is overlooked and is not forgiving. All of the pieces held when I fell... Another part of it was that I had just caught a glimpse of someone who fell and broke their neck. To be fair-I let my head get to me. Point is-this climb will not forgive (especially that top section). Be careful and have fun! |
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