This truly fun climb goes completely on gear except for its bolted rap anchors. The first pitch is typical moderate queen creek face climbing protected with occasional horizontals and discontinuous crack systems. The stellar second pitch, however, is a different story: it is a wavy crack system that ends with a committing, technically challenging bulge. Those with a cool head and solid trad skills will find good gear protecting this exciting crux. It is a memorable LDE lead.
1) On the NW corner of the formation, climb the right-most crack to a small ledge. Continue up and to the right of thin, discontinuous cracks. Finish up the pitch on a large ledge at a two bolt anchor (5.8, 90').
2) Step right to a crack running up the middle of the north face. The crack protects nicely using a wide range of cams. The crack ends below a 5.10 bulge. Pull the bulge protected by tricky but solid gear. (5.10a/b, 70').
From here either rappel the route or traverse south to finish on the final pitch of The Shmotem Pole.
North face of the Hatch. See overview photo.
Stoppers, Doubles through #3 camalot. One #4 camalot.
Doug headed toward the crux
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Second pitch is the thrill, especially pulling the bulge and wondering about the pro. Solid pro just above the end of the crack (#1, I think) and the crack itself is fun.
From: mesa, az
Jan 16, 2010
It was the end of the day and I only had time for the first pitch but very fun, good rock and solid pro.
|By Catherine Conner|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
Only followed the first pitch, but really enjoyed it-FUN!
Jan 20, 2010
Doug and I had fun on this route, first is a nice cruiser, second pitch was stellar...next time I'm sure Doug will place pro at the exit moves