Up Into The Green Silence V4
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Moving through the foot/hand match on 'Up Into The...
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Description This is basically the direct line of '3 Speed On Vinyl' (aka 'Medicine Man'). Start standing on the large chalked jug shelf (same start as '3 Speed'). Grab a sidepull crimp with your left hand, move your feet around and do a foot/hand match with your right heel on the starting hold. Rock up and reach high to a good right sidepull (crux). Bump left hand to another good edge. From here, the top out is relatively straight forward on good holds. This problem is more logical and less contrived than '3 Speed' and is definitely easier. The landing is flat, the movement is great and it's just high enough to add some excitement.
I'm not sure if this problem has been done before. If it has, feel free to let me know and I'll change the info to match that. Based on the condition of the top out holds, I would guess that if it has been climbed before, that hasn't happened in quite a while...
Location This problem starts the same as '3 Speed', but goes directly up. It more or less faces 'Zig Zag Crack'.
Protection A couple of pads are sufficient.
The first move of 'Up Into The Green Silence'- Rum...
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Sticking the crux move of 'Up Into The Green Silen...
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'Up Into The Green Silence'- Rumney, NH.
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| Comments on Up Into The Green Silence |
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By Christian Prellwitz
Jun 14, 2012
| I cleaned the top out the best that I could, but I only had a 6' ladder and it would be best cleaned on rappel. Once the top is cleaned, the top out will be a tad easier (and safer) and the problem will be quite good.
As for the grade, it's hard to say. After cleaning, it only took me two tries to climb it. It's definitely easier than '3 Speed' (which I have also climbed). However, this problem is to my strengths (crimps and technical climbing) so it's hard to grade. Felt about the same as 'Spraguesorus' for me, or maybe a little bit easier. Get on it and let me know what you think! |
By Luke W.
From: Prescott
Jun 14, 2012
| Not a new route, but a great climb just the same. Nice photos! |
By Christian Prellwitz
Jun 14, 2012
| Luke- Definitely let me know if you have any info/insight on the climb and I'll be happy to change anything. I recognize that it's unlikely that it hasn't been climbed before as it is fairly obvious and not all that difficult. But, I've never seen chalk on it and the top holds were dirty!! :)
But yah, I'd love to give the deserved credit to whomever came before. |
By Luke W.
From: Prescott
Jun 15, 2012
| When I climbed this a while back I just topped out in the mossy jugs. I think you obtained the FMFA (first moss free ascent). |
By Christian Prellwitz
Jun 16, 2012
| FMFA- I like that. A notable achievement in a climate like this, where the moss usually wins!
I just hope that this line starts to see some more traffic (thus keeping the moss somewhat at bay) because it really is quite good and one of the better of that grade at the Blackjacks.
Either way, thanks for sharing your thoughts! |
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