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 ADVANCED
Totem-Proto Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Shit Salad S 
Direct North Face T 
Drop 'em South S 
Fern Gully Arete S 
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 
GTKO T 
Inertia T 
Milk of Manatee T 
Original Optomist T 
Overcoming Inertia T 
Pathological Optimist T,S 
Pipe Bomb T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Protean Catch T 
Proto Pipe S 
Proto Type T 
Shakin' & Eggs T 
Totem Pole Direct S 
Totem Pole, The S 
Up in Smoke T 
Unsorted Routes:

Up in Smoke 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Geir and Marcy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Geir on Feb 1, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Geir working his way up the face, drill and all!

Description 

This is a bold and steep route up the south face of the Proto Pipe. You will need a cool head, a good eye for gear placements, and some endurance for this one.

Climb through a section of poor rock protected by three bolts. After this, the committing climbing begins. Find a series of good holds that are just right of a small dihedral. Climb well above your last bolt to a stance, place some gear, and then follow a few widely spaced bolts past two bulges to a crack near the top. There are a number of good holds on this climb that are a little hard to see from below, so if you find yourself trying to pull on a heinous crimp look around a bit.

Gear can be found between the bolts although there is potential for some long falls. I'm right on the fence as to whether this is PG13 and R, so for now I have posted it as an R.

I think this climb weighs in at 10+, Marcy felt it was harder.

Location 

Starts about 10' to the right of the original route on this formation (also named Proto Pipe, 5.11b).

Protection 

Nuts, single set of cams through #3 Camalot with extras from 1"-3".


Photos of Up in Smoke Slideshow Add Photo
View from the base of the route
View from the base of the route
Marcy following the FA
Marcy following the FA

Comments on Up in Smoke Add Comment
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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 1, 2014

Out of curiosity, why not add additional bolts to protect the runouts if the rock is poor?
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 1, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R

DAS and I got to watch Geir work his way up this bold ground up ascent, drill hanging by his harness and using a hook to protect drilling bolt holes in on a vertical face. Impressive indeed! Nice work! BTW, I think you mean "S Face of Proto Pipe." Have got a pic and will post.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 1, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R

Will do this next time I'm there, but a good point is raised -- it's a climb up a face, why not bolt it and call it safe? Not like there's an obvious line on that face, as opposed to the arete, or up a crack. Will let you know what I think after I climb it, though. And, you do the same with "Bladdamir and the Ost" as I am thinking an extra bolt would help that one a lot.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2014

Hey Arjun, thanks for the photo!! It is on the S face, good catch. There are two bolts protecting the poor rock in the beginning. Since the rest of the rock is better, only a few bolts were installed where there wasn't reasonable gear. It makes for a bold lead; it is probably a similar commitment level as Overcoming Inertia. It will be interesting to see if you guys think it is PG13 or R. In the interim I will keep it posted it as an R.

Marcy and I are thinking of coming up again soon; it would be great to go down link up with you and David again to see what you think. I'd be psyched to check out "Bladdamir and the Ost" at the same time.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R

Fantastic and sustained climbing up an improbable face! Am even more impressed with Geir developing this ground up with drill on harness and climbing into the unknown. Nice work and thanks for the belay on it yesterday! There is definitely a runout section between the ledge and the upper bolt -- I didn't pause to place a small 0.3 or 0.4 cam that may have helped protect this section as it's quite pumpy climbing. Yes, a bolt would help make that section safer, but given the endurance nature of this climb, I suspect folks leading it will be strong at the grade. So, since I'm still not sure what the difference is between PG-13 and R, I'll leave it as "R" -- (isn't all LD climbing PG-13?!). Single rack of cams and enough draws for the bolts will work for this heady route. Climbing is not as crimpy as "Proto Pipe", but footwork is similarly delicate and there are some key trad placements that need to be done while on steep ground, hence the similar grade.