Me working the second move on Up in Smoke. Eventua...
Start with both hands on the chalked hold to the right of the asshole, with the same rigth foot as for the Big Ocean. Cross through with the right hand and work out the edge of the roof to the left. Top out on the arete on the left side of the boulder.
This climb is nowhere near deserving of 'classic' status. Unique starting holds (for Pway), followed by repetitive movements to a somewhat awkward move pulling the lip. There are many climbs in Devil's Den alone that are so much better, in my opinion.
Probably a good first v7 (albeit soft one) for people, because there's only one hard move followed by good holds and good heel hooks.
I did a climb that was left of Up in Smoke when you are facing it. It's sort of on a little hill. Its a pretty hard, but not so tall, compression feature that is right next to a small tree. Does anybody know what this climb is? I though it was around v7/8
Tony- I know exactly what you're talking about. Did you do it from the sit or the stand? We were thinking possibly v7ish from the stand and perhaps v9 ish from the sit. Definitely a bit morpho as shorter folks probably won't be able to span the holds and taller folks might find it easy. I'm not sure it has a name. It's possible that it is a problem called 'Last But Not Least' but I thought that climbed the face left of the problem we're describing. Either way, it's really good and worth seeking out. I'll try to get some pics and post it up some time in the next few days.
The climb I'm describing is literally like 25 left of Up in Smoke. I squat-stared with a rounded sloper with my left hand, and a 4-finger, pretty bad crimp with my right. I then bumped my left hand to a triangle-shaped side pull crimp. Then it was a few difficult compression moves to the top. Probably like 8-9 feet tall.