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 ADVANCED
Devil's Den Bouldering
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Advantageous 
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Bad Apple, The 
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Doing The Dew 
Feeling For The Heavens (aka Slow and Pooky) 
Hug, The 
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Pretty Bloc Swag 
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Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 
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Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

Up in Smoke 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,962
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Apr 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Me working the second move on Up in Smoke. Eventua...

Description 

Start with both hands on the chalked hold to the right of the asshole, with the same rigth foot as for the Big Ocean. Cross through with the right hand and work out the edge of the roof to the left. Top out on the arete on the left side of the boulder.


Location 

Same as The Big Ocean

Protection 

Pads and spotters


Photos of Up in Smoke Slideshow Add Photo
Alex getting extended. Photo Mike Mango
Alex getting extended. Photo Mike Mango
rob blowing through up in smoke
rob blowing through up in smoke

Comments on Up in Smoke Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 21, 2013
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Jun 23, 2008

This is one of those problems that can feel terrible until you figure out your precise beta. I found the pocket really tweaky until I got the body position right.
By Pat McGinn
Sep 7, 2009

The guidebook says a northeast classic... I would agree. I love this problem and it is one of my favorite ascents that I have done.
By JEC
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Mar 4, 2011

Found this in last summer's vid collection.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 26, 2011

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 6, 2012

yup another up in smoke vid... but this one is mine! :)
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Nov 15, 2012

More beta fodder @ about 2:15
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 18, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+

This climb is nowhere near deserving of 'classic' status. Unique starting holds (for Pway), followed by repetitive movements to a somewhat awkward move pulling the lip. There are many climbs in Devil's Den alone that are so much better, in my opinion.

Probably a good first v7 (albeit soft one) for people, because there's only one hard move followed by good holds and good heel hooks.
By Tony Pepperoni
Oct 19, 2013

I did a climb that was left of Up in Smoke when you are facing it. It's sort of on a little hill. Its a pretty hard, but not so tall, compression feature that is right next to a small tree. Does anybody know what this climb is? I though it was around v7/8
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 19, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+

Tony- I know exactly what you're talking about. Did you do it from the sit or the stand? We were thinking possibly v7ish from the stand and perhaps v9 ish from the sit. Definitely a bit morpho as shorter folks probably won't be able to span the holds and taller folks might find it easy. I'm not sure it has a name. It's possible that it is a problem called 'Last But Not Least' but I thought that climbed the face left of the problem we're describing. Either way, it's really good and worth seeking out. I'll try to get some pics and post it up some time in the next few days.
By Tony Pepperoni
Oct 20, 2013

The climb I'm describing is literally like 25 left of Up in Smoke. I squat-stared with a rounded sloper with my left hand, and a 4-finger, pretty bad crimp with my right. I then bumped my left hand to a triangle-shaped side pull crimp. Then it was a few difficult compression moves to the top. Probably like 8-9 feet tall.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 21, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+

Tony--

I posted the problem here: 'The Hug'

Check it out. And let me know what you think.

Not sure if the sit has ever been done.