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Iron Curtain Wall
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Unknown West of One with the Rock S 
Up In a Flash S 

Up In a Flash 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian and Vicki Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 3,071
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 3, 2004

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Callista Pearson seconding up "Up In A Flash."

Description 

Up In a Flash is the longest route on the Iron Curtain Wall. It is the fourth route from the left, and the bolts can be seen leading to the highest point. Follow the bolts through many jugs to a 2-bolt anchor (with chains) on the top of the formation. The crux is at the start.Either walk off or do a 2-rope rap back to the deck.


Protection 

9 or 10 bolts. Some bolts are well spaced, but the placements are excellent.



Photos of Up In a Flash Slideshow Add Photo
Up In a Flash
BETA PHOTO: Up In a Flash
Getting over the first 2 bolts seems to be the crux
BETA PHOTO: Getting over the first 2 bolts seems to be the cru...
Rapping down from the anchor bolts.  This is much easier than trying to hike down and hold on to the old ratty rope that's there as a handrail.
BETA PHOTO: Rapping down from the anchor bolts. This is much ...
Comments on Up In a Flash Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2014
By Lee Gitlin
Jul 9, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you can get past down-canyon winds in the morning, a (somewhat) hairball descent to the crag, and I-80 traffic, the actual climbing on this route is superb. The first bolt is a nifty 15 feet off the deck, attained via the hardest moves on the route. After bolt #2, the route straightens out a bit. You have options right or left, but high stepping into your former hand holds seems to work well. The route is definitely run-out, although the climbing is not difficult. A great, if longer, alternative to exiting the crag as opposed to scrambling out.

By Nathan Fisher
Jul 9, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A blast of a route. This route has a tough start and then progresses into a gem. The last 3 bolts make this route as it steepens up and the edging becomes neccesary. Consistent climbing with many fun moves. Do yourself a favor and don't miss this one.

By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
May 7, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We set up a top rope with long runners and a 60 meter rope. The rope was barely long enough. A 70 meter rope should work for a single rappel off the chains.

By Timmy Fearn
Oct 12, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this last night in the lingering twilight. Cool thing about this area is that the street lamps from the Canyon highway illuminate the wall somewhat creating an orange surreal effect. And if you like that whole view of the city lights thing, Iron Curtain has a pretty cool angle of repose.

A 70 meter rope reaches easily from the chains to the ground.

By Talia
From: SLC, UT
Mar 24, 2007

anyone leave some gear behind on this climb?

By Spinalflow
From: Sugarhouse , Utah
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The rappel on this climb can be made w/ a 60m rope just be prepared for it to slip from your belay device right as your feet hit the ground assuming you are over 150lb in weight.
Although you should probably be using a 70m rope

By Joel R. Andersen
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 22, 2009

There is a lot of falling rock in this area and a lot of curious hikers looking from above and they just might nock some nuggets on your noggin. (recommended helmet area)

By Nick C
From: Holladay, UT
Oct 29, 2010

I did leave some gear behind...a few years back. New to Mtn Proj, so I didn't look at the post for this page until recently. If you still have it...send me a PM or email nickdiy at hotmail dot com.

PS - Lots of spinners. But easy climbing.

By Mark Dexheimer
From: Midvale, UT
May 17, 2011

This route is a bit sparse at the start, but about halfway up it gets juggy, and about two thirds up it's like climbing a ladder.

By Dan G.
Jul 1, 2011

Anyone find a brown BD rocklock 'biner? I think I left it at the chains a few weeks ago.
Great climb! I'm coming back for this one, even after 3 ascents :-) There seems to be a few different variation for the final 1/4.

By Tim Golden
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I think this one is more 5.9 (and maybe PG-13) territory just because there are a couple harder moves below the first bolt which is quite high up. After that's it's a fun easy climb to the top. Make sure you stay to the right on the slabby part near the top instead of using the easy jugs on the left for the full experience.

By Zak Munro
From: VT, Leadville CO
Nov 24, 2012

the route wonders a way up the face and I found the easier climbing out left, most of the hold are good but you get up pretty good above your last bolt and would definitely not want to fall. Every single bolt spins and I had to give several good attempts to to even try and clip the draw to the bolt itself, not to mention the rusty/sketchy chains at the top. Descent climbing, but dont fuck up while leading

By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 31, 2013

First two bolts are the trickiest to clip. After clipping the second bolt it worked best for me to head right over the projection, then back left to the third bolt. After the third bolt it's mellow 5.7 climbing.

As Zak mentioned in Nov 2012 every single bolt with the exception of the last one before the anchors is a spinner. The chains, anchors and bolts at the top are rusted. Only one anchor seems solid. I would not climb this again without setting up my own anchor. I also wouldn't want to take a fall on any of these bolts.

This wall needs some TLC- any idea who to contact about repairs? I would be happy to help but don't have the knowledge or equipment.

By bsmoot
Apr 3, 2013

Just because a bolt is a spinner, does not necessary mean that it's strength is that much compromised. They are all 3/8" rawl 5 piece bolts. Sure they're old, but I wouldn't have a problem taking a whipper on any of them. It happens all the time on the harder routes at Parley's...they'll get replaced eventually by the ASCA...but yes, Parley's could use some TLC.

By Arthur Morris
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 6, 2013

A high quality route, and a proud lead for the grade. If you're a 5.8 leader you may want to try it on TR before you go for the lead. I felt like you had to wander a little to find the 5.8 moves and that the direct line was a bit thin in places.

If you're not in the mood for the run-outs bring some thin gear and you'll find an intermediate placement or two to calm your heart between bolts.

The location aside, this route has the makings of a classic - long, interesting, just spicy enough...

Another Smoot masterpiece.

By mikewhite
Jun 28, 2013

Parleys is definitely still on my list for some upgrades. I will try to get to it this fall.

Mike
Asca

By Eric Montandon
From: Orem, Ut
May 23, 2014

Just tried to do this rout today with a 60 meter rope and two 120cm slings of the chains as the early comment from Ryan says and I was still abort 8 feet short just though I'd let you know so you don't get yourself in trouble. I guess you need very very long slings?