This climb is just left of the twin chimney/crack system. Initially start up the crack "Chimney Sweep" to the right of the climb. Then make your move out of the crack onto the face in time to clip the 1st bolt. Continue up past thin crimps, and very awkward body moves. Clip the second bolt and puzzle out the sequence to the pin. The hands are terrible for a couple of moves. Get past the pin, place a piece, and make your move up the incredibly smooth face devoid of any help. Well any help is kind of strong, but damn!!! That upper face is so smooth, then when you think you got it licked, reach up for the ledge above the chains.... and scream "falling!!", cause that ledge ain't any help. Fun climb, but what a pump.
2 rap anchors at the top. 3 bolts + 1 piton are on the climb. Bring some trad gear. .75 cam worked well in the crack before the 1st bolt. There is a small nut "lost" after the 2nd bolt. It probably should be left alone as it is pretty set.
By Lee Gitlin Jun 17, 2004 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Here's a route with a little of everything. The bottom 2/3 has some cool bouldery moves, with body position being key to utilize several of the holds. The top 15 feet totally changes character -- a smooth, vertical affair with only a few (THIN) holds. Kudos to the route setters for some very intelligent, positive protection.
NOTE: as of September 2009 the pin midway up is gone. There is a good TCU placement near by that affords protection. As such, take 2-4 TCUs for protecting this area as well as the upper area that also requires a TCU.
This route has certainly changed over the years. What used to be a gear-protected start is now gone, but a bolt or two have appeared and I think its actually a bit harder to read (and climb) than it once was. Worth repeating if you haven't done it in awhile.
By Scott Gilliam From: Raleigh, NC Sep 22, 2010 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Very cool and interesting, not awkward at all if you read the rock correctly. Great gear where the pin used to be.
man, i would have been really smart to look at this site before i climbed this one...i felt good enough to climb with the pin and no gear but got up to where the pin used to be before i realized it wasn't there...it becomes a pretty good runout between bolts...definitely bring gear...great climb though!
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Jul 21, 2014 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
The chains are convenient but stopping there you miss the very cool top out moves, so if you want to do the original finish, clip the chains and bring a 1, 2, and 0.5 camalot to make a bomber anchor about 10 feet above them.