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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace S 
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 
Fastest Drill S 
Grapefruit Dance S 
Indecent Exposure T 
Men at Work T,S 
Over the Rainbow T,S 
Pete & Bob's T 
Pillar Climb T 
Rainbow Bridge T,S 
Trigger Finger S,TR 
Unzipped S,TR 
Warren - Johnson S,TR 
Zipper, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unzipped 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: [FA: Harvey Carter and Cleve McCarty FFA: Mark Rolofson And Jeff Britt]
Page Views: 1,370
Submitted By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Jan 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Stephen Zeglen relaxing after nailing "Unzipped".

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  • Description 

    To correct previous wrongs (see description of Fastest Drill), I've decided to enter a separate description for Unzipped.

    Unzipped is the left-most route on the Cowboy Boot Crack Face. It is three bolts to a two bolt anchor. The "s" rating is given due to the long, unprotected opening traverse. You can TR the mostly unprotected Warren-Johnson route to the left from these anchors. A 60m rope will reach the main platform, but as always tie knots in the end of the rope to be sure.

    From the main platform, traverse left to the farthest line of bolts. It is not hard climbing, but mentally it can get to you a bit. Head up the obvious bolt line, staying more or less to the left of the line. Step up the commiting move above bolt #2 and grab edges and a final hueco before the anchors.

    Protection 

    3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Unzipped Slideshow Add Photo
    Jon Cannon breathes a big sigh of relief after clipping the first bolt on Unzipped.  Photo by Brian Wandzilak.
    Jon Cannon breathes a big sigh of relief after cli...
    B-Dub considers the move.
    B-Dub considers the move.
    Adam Kimmerly leading Unzipped.
    Adam Kimmerly leading Unzipped.

    Comments on Unzipped Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rik Anderson
    From: C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
    Jun 24, 2006

    "The Zipper": After you have done the first pitch, don't forget about the next 2 pitches going to the top of Tweedle Dum Spire. They're harder than the first pitch .11b & .9. From the belay, look up you'll see the line of pins going up. If you go straight up, it's A2 for the first 30 feet, then .11b, or you can climb up and a tad to the R. and then traverse back to the left after roughly 30ft. Then on to the summit of the spire. Rappel down FA: Harvey Carter and Cleve McCarty FFA: Mark Rolofson And Jeff Britt.
    By Chris Mack
    Sep 27, 2007
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

    This is R/X. If you fall on this while on the traverse, you are fucked. It is still a good line to do a few times.
    By Bosier Parsons
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Nov 21, 2007

    The traverse can be protected with 2 small Camalots (I think I used a 0.4 small gray and a #002 C4 yellow - but I could be slightly off on these).

    I used a piece of cord and a rap ring and extended the top bolt of the anchor so that the two bolts are equalized if rapping off and top-roping the Warren-Johnson (also known as Mike's Face). This should also work to better equalize the anchor if trying to get back to the ledge below Cowboy Boot Crack (but that is not recommended due to the potential pendulum).
    By SAL
    From: broomdigiddy
    Feb 3, 2009

    I posted "The Zipper" as its own route recently. Rik's beta is a bit diffent them mine as I do not think I climbed 30 ft before getting on the face. I climbed directly to the first pin and started up from there. May be sandy and and difficult climbing, but it avoids any A2 which I don't know why anyone would try to nail this now.;