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Chimney Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main 
Another Roadside Attraction 
Coherent Excitation 
Copperhead 5 
Crows Nest 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat 
George's Buttress 
Georges Peach 
Jungle Gym 
Mistaken Identity 
New Year's Eve 
Perfect Peter 
Shriveled Penis 
Single Lens Reflex 
Standard Route 
Stoner's Boner 
Straight Arrow 
Tomorrow is Today 
Unstrung Harp 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest 

Unstrung Harp 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Steiger, Scott Brown, Ray Ringle, 1976
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: John Steiger on Feb 19, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: A page from The Unstrung Harp.


Scott Brown envisioned this line, placed its only bolt on lead, and worked out the crux, only to take a 30 foot whipper after pumping out on the easier crack after the crux. He slammed into the wall within a few feet of the ground, shattering the back of his helmet. Freaked out, we quickly left for the bar. A few weeks later we came back, on Halloween Day. Iím not sure how I ended up with the first lead, but I was a nervous wreck all the way to the belay. For some reason, this pitch never got an R rating (or S back then), so I assume that, despite our experience, it protects adequately. For purists, do the second pitch as described below; for tourists, I suggest doing Gripping Space for the second pitch.

(1) Climb more or less straight up to the bolt, then traverse left and up to an obvious crack/flake system. From its end climb to a pinnacle-like ledge midway on the second pitch of the Standard Route. (2) Climb up a little and strike back out right onto the face and up to a roof or bulge. Turn it (5.9 R) to easier ground above and eventually the top via any one of a number of other routes.

Regarding the name, itís the title of an Edward Gorey story about a very odd author.


Find the base of the Standard Route. Walk along the wall to the right to a RURP seam protected by bolts (Bashie Crack, 5.12, FA Bob DíAntonio 1986). Immediately to the left is Unstrung Harp.


Standard Tucson trad rack.

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Fall from here would be bad.  Greg on the sharp end.  Good pitch.
Fall from here would be bad. Greg on the sharp en...
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